Is Your Jewellery Real? Materials Explained Brand by Brand

How to Tell If Jewellery Is Real

Before diving into individual brands, here are the universal checks that apply to any piece of jewellery. These are the same tests we use in store when a customer brings in a piece they are unsure about.

1. Check the Hallmarks

In the United Kingdom, the Hallmarking Act 1973 makes it a criminal offence to describe an item as gold, silver, or platinum unless it carries a legally recognised hallmark (with a limited exemption for items below certain weight thresholds). A full UK hallmark includes a sponsor’s mark (the maker), a standard mark (purity — such as 925 for silver or 750 for 18ct gold), an assay office mark (Birmingham, London, Edinburgh, or Sheffield), and a date letter. If you see these marks, the metal content has been independently verified by a UK Assay Office. This is the single most reliable test.

2. The Magnet Test

Sterling silver, gold, and platinum are not magnetic. Hold a strong neodymium magnet against the piece. If it snaps to the magnet, the piece contains ferrous metal and is not genuine silver or gold. Note: stainless steel jewellery (like Nomination base links or BOSS watches) may show slight magnetic attraction — this is normal for steel and does not indicate a fake. The magnet test is specifically useful for testing pieces claimed to be silver or gold.

3. The Weight Test

Precious metals are denser than most base metals and plated alternatives. A genuine sterling silver bracelet will feel noticeably heavier than a silver-plated brass bracelet of the same size. Gold is even denser — a real gold ring has a satisfying weight that plated alternatives simply cannot replicate. This test takes experience, but once you have handled real silver and gold side by side, the difference is obvious.

4. The Acid Test (Professional Only)

Jewellers use nitric acid testing kits to verify metal purity. A small scratch is made on an inconspicuous area, and acid is applied. The reaction colour confirms whether the metal is genuine and at what purity. This test is destructive (it marks the piece) and should only be performed by a qualified jeweller. We do not recommend attempting acid tests at home.

5. Visual Inspection

Look at the piece under good light. Genuine silver develops a characteristic patina and tarnish over time — a warm yellowish or grey discolouration that polishes away easily. This tarnish actually proves the piece is real silver. Fake silver or silver-plated items often show green or flaky discolouration where plating has worn through to the brass underneath. Real gold maintains its colour almost indefinitely, while gold-plated items may show wear at edges, clasps, and high-friction points where the base metal peeks through.

Is ChloBo Real Silver?

Yes. ChloBo is real silver — specifically 925 sterling silver, the same standard used across the British fine and demi-fine jewellery industry. The “925” means 92.5% pure silver alloyed with 7.5% copper. Pure silver (999) is too soft for jewellery that will be worn daily, so the copper is added to create a metal that holds its shape, resists bending, and survives everyday wear. This is the same alloy used by every sterling silver brand in the UK, from Tiffany to Georg Jensen.

ChloBo pieces sold in the UK are hallmarked in accordance with UK law. Qualifying pieces carry the lion passant (the sterling silver standard mark), an assay office mark, and the maker’s mark. If you look at the clasp or inside surface of a ChloBo bangle, you should be able to find the 925 stamp. On smaller pieces or those under the 7.78-gram hallmarking threshold, the full hallmark may not be present, but the silver content is identical.

ChloBo also offers gold-plated and rose gold-plated finishes. These are still sterling silver underneath — the plating is a thin layer of gold applied over the 925 silver base. If the gold plating wears over time (which it will on high-friction areas like rings and bangles), the silver underneath is revealed. This is not a fault — it is inherent to all plated jewellery, regardless of brand or price.

One of the simplest confirmations that your ChloBo is real silver? It tarnishes. Sterling silver reacts with sulphur compounds in the air and on your skin, forming a yellowish or dark patina over time. This is a chemical property of genuine silver, not a defect. A silver polishing cloth removes tarnish in seconds. If your ChloBo never tarnishes, that would actually be a reason to question its authenticity — though from an authorised stockist like OD’s, that question does not arise.

Is Kit Heath Real Sterling Silver?

Yes. Kit Heath is genuine 925 sterling silver, independently verified and hallmarked in the UK at the Birmingham Assay Office. Every qualifying piece carries the lion passant, the Birmingham anchor, Kit Heath’s sponsor’s mark (“KH”), and the numeric fineness stamp — the four marks that together confirm legally verified precious metal content. Kit Heath is one of the few British jewellery brands that submits every qualifying piece for independent assay, rather than relying on self-declaration.

Kit Heath holds AnchorCert Protect accreditation from the Birmingham Assay Office. This means the brand’s manufacturing processes, supply chain, and quality control have been independently audited and certified. AnchorCert Protect is not a self-applied label — it requires ongoing inspection and re-certification. It confirms that Kit Heath’s silver meets the hallmarking standard not just at point of sale, but throughout the entire production process.

Some Kit Heath pieces feature rhodium plating for a brighter, more tarnish-resistant finish. Rhodium is a precious metal from the platinum group — it is applied as a thin coating over the sterling silver to prevent tarnishing and add a cooler, white-metal sheen. The piece underneath is still 925 silver. Kit Heath also produces gold vermeil pieces, which are sterling silver coated with a thicker layer of gold (minimum 2.5 microns) — again, the base is genuine silver.

Under UK hallmarking law, silver items weighing less than 7.78 grams are exempt from compulsory hallmarking. Kit Heath’s smaller pieces — petite earrings, thin chain necklaces — may fall under this threshold and therefore not carry a full hallmark. This does not mean they are not real silver. The exemption is a weight-based legal technicality, not a quality distinction. The silver content is identical regardless of whether the piece is large enough to require hallmarking.

Is Nomination Real Gold?

Yes — the gold on Nomination links is genuine. Decorated Composable Classic links feature real 18ct gold (750 fineness) raised details, and select pieces use 9ct rose gold (375 fineness). The gold is applied to a 316L stainless steel base link, which forms the structural foundation of the bracelet. So the base link itself is not a precious metal — but the decorative gold element on top is real, assayed gold.

Nomination is an Italian brand, and Italy uses a self-declaration hallmarking system rather than independent assay offices like the UK. This means you will not find a UK assay office mark (Birmingham anchor, London leopard) on Nomination pieces. Instead, Italian law requires the manufacturer to stamp the gold purity (750 or 375) on the piece and maintain records of metal sourcing. This is standard practice for all Italian-made gold jewellery and is legally recognised across the EU and UK.

To verify the gold on a Nomination link, turn it over. On the rear of a decorated link, you should see a small stamp indicating the gold purity — 750 for 18ct gold, or 375 for 9ct rose gold. Plain steel links (the undecorated base links) will not carry a gold stamp, because they contain no gold. This is not a defect — base links are explicitly sold as stainless steel. The gold content applies only to the decorated elements.

The 316L stainless steel used for Nomination base links is medical-grade steel — the same alloy used in surgical instruments and orthopaedic implants. It is hypoallergenic, corrosion-resistant, and does not tarnish. While it is not a precious metal, it is not cheap or inferior either. The combination of a robust steel base with genuine gold details is what makes Nomination’s modular system work: the steel provides strength and durability, while the gold provides the decorative value.

Nomination also uses genuine gemstones, cubic zirconia, and Italian enamel on various links. The enamel is hand-applied in Nomination’s Florence workshop. Gemstone links use natural or lab-created stones set in gold bezels. Every material is declared on the product packaging.

Is Clogau Real Welsh Gold?

Yes. Every piece of Clogau jewellery contains genuine rare Welsh gold sourced from the Clogau St David’s Gold Mine in Snowdonia, North Wales. This is not a marketing claim — it is a verifiable fact backed by hallmarking, provenance documentation, and over three decades of brand history. The same mine has historically supplied gold for British Royal wedding rings, including those of Queen Elizabeth II, Princess Diana, and Catherine, Princess of Wales.

The Welsh gold story is one of scarcity. The Clogau mine is no longer actively producing at commercial scale, which makes the existing stock of Welsh gold genuinely finite. Clogau holds what remains and blends it into each piece. In their gold jewellery, the Welsh gold is combined with standard gold alloys to create the finished piece. In their silver jewellery with gold accents (the “rose gold” highlights that appear on many Clogau designs), the Welsh gold is incorporated into the gold element. This means even a predominantly silver Clogau piece contains a documented trace of rare Welsh gold.

Clogau jewellery is fully UK hallmarked. Gold pieces carry the appropriate hallmark for their purity — 9ct (375) or 18ct (750) — and silver pieces carry the 925 sterling silver mark. The hallmarks are applied by a UK Assay Office, confirming that the metal content has been independently verified. Clogau also includes a certificate of authenticity with each piece, confirming the Welsh gold provenance.

The price of Clogau jewellery is higher than other silver brands of comparable size and weight. This is directly attributable to the Welsh gold content. Welsh gold is one of the rarest and most valuable types of gold in the world — estimates place it at roughly five to ten times the value of standard gold by weight, though exact pricing depends on source and provenance. When you buy Clogau, you are paying for the combination of 925 sterling silver craftsmanship, UK hallmarking, and a documented link to one of the rarest natural gold deposits on earth.

The rose gold colour that appears on many Clogau designs is not plating. On gold pieces, it is a genuine gold alloy containing Welsh gold. On silver pieces with gold accents, the accent itself is a separate gold component attached to the silver body. This is different from brands that use rose gold plating over brass — Clogau’s gold elements are solid gold, hallmarked and verified.

Is Vivienne Westwood Real Gold or Plated?

It depends on the range. The vast majority of Vivienne Westwood jewellery is not solid gold. Most pieces use brass as the base metal, finished with gold, rose gold, or rhodium (silver-tone) plating. This is standard practice for fashion jewellery at this price point and is not an attempt to deceive — Vivienne Westwood has never claimed these pieces are solid gold. They are genuine Vivienne Westwood designs, made to the brand’s specifications, using materials appropriate to the fashion jewellery category.

Vivienne Westwood also produces a smaller Fine line that uses 925 sterling silver as the base metal. These pieces may be left in their natural silver finish or plated with gold or rhodium. The key distinction is the base: Fine line pieces are precious metal underneath, while Classic and Fashion line pieces are brass underneath. How do you tell which you have? Check for hallmarks. If the piece carries a 925 stamp, a maker’s mark, and an assay office mark, it is sterling silver. Brass pieces will not carry these stamps because hallmarking legislation applies only to precious metals.

Plating wear is normal and expected on all brass-based Vivienne Westwood pieces. Earrings (low friction) can retain their finish for years. Necklaces worn daily typically show signs after 12 to 24 months. Rings and bracelets (high friction, constant contact with surfaces) may show wear within 6 to 12 months of daily use. When the plating wears through, the brass underneath becomes visible — usually as a slightly different colour or a greenish tinge. This does not mean the piece is fake. It means the plating has served its functional lifespan, which is inherent to all plated fashion jewellery.

The brass that Vivienne Westwood uses is chosen for its ability to capture the fine casting detail of the iconic Orb motif. Brass holds intricate shapes better than many alternatives, which is why it remains the preferred base metal for high-detail fashion jewellery across the industry. If you want a Vivienne Westwood piece that will never show plating wear, look for the sterling silver Fine line — or choose a rhodium-plated finish, as rhodium is one of the hardest and most durable plating metals available.

To extend the life of any plated Vivienne Westwood piece, avoid contact with water, perfume, hairspray, and cleaning chemicals. Remove jewellery before washing hands, showering, or swimming. Store pieces individually in a soft pouch to prevent scratching. These steps apply equally to gold-plated, rose gold-plated, and rhodium-plated finishes.

Is Swarovski Real Crystal or Glass?

Swarovski crystals are precision-cut crystal glass — not natural gemstones and not ordinary window glass. They are manufactured from a proprietary formula containing silicon dioxide and other minerals, then machine-cut to exact facet angles that maximise light refraction. Since 2012, Swarovski has used a lead-free formula (previously, lead oxide was added to increase refractive index). The result is a material with exceptional clarity, rainbow light dispersion, and a level of precision cutting that ordinary glass cannot achieve.

The word “crystal” in this context refers to optical quality and manufacturing precision, not geological origin. Swarovski has never claimed its crystals are natural gemstones. The value lies in the proprietary formula, the cutting technology, and the brand’s 130-year heritage in Wattens, Austria. When someone asks “is Swarovski real crystal?” the answer is: it is real Swarovski crystal — a specific, premium manufactured material that occupies its own category between glass and gemstones.

We have a full deep-dive guide that covers the formula, cutting process, coating technologies (Aurora Borealis, Shimmer), and how Swarovski compares to natural gemstones and competing crystal brands. Read our complete Swarovski Crystal vs Glass Guide here. Shop the collection at Swarovski at OD’s Jewellers.

What Does 925 Mean on Jewellery?

The number 925 stamped on a piece of jewellery means it is made from sterling silver — an alloy containing 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% other metals, almost always copper. This ratio has been the international standard for sterling silver for centuries. The “925” stamp is a shorthand for 925 parts per thousand of pure silver, which is the minimum silver content required for a piece to be legally described as “sterling silver” in the UK.

Pure silver (999 fineness, sometimes called fine silver) is too soft for everyday jewellery. The copper in sterling silver provides the hardness and durability needed for rings, bracelets, and other pieces that endure daily wear. The 7.5% copper content is also what causes sterling silver to tarnish — copper reacts with sulphur compounds in the air, creating the characteristic dark patina. This tarnish is removable and does not damage the silver.

We have a detailed standalone guide covering everything about the 925 hallmark — how to find it on your jewellery, what the other hallmark symbols mean, the difference between 925 and 950 and 999, and what to do if your piece does not carry a 925 stamp. Read our complete “What Does 925 Mean?” guide here.

Quick Reference: What’s Real Across Our Brands

This table covers every jewellery brand we stock. “Real” does not always mean precious metal — it means the materials are genuine, correctly described, and appropriate for the product category.

The Bottom Line: Why “Real” Means Different Things

The question “is it real?” assumes a single answer, but jewellery does not work that way. A ChloBo bracelet is “real” sterling silver. A Nomination link is “real” 18ct gold on “real” stainless steel. A Vivienne Westwood necklace is a “real” Vivienne Westwood product made from “real” brass with “real” gold plating. A Swarovski pendant contains “real” precision-cut crystal. None of these statements contradict each other. They are all accurate descriptions of different materials serving different purposes at different price points.

What matters is that the piece you buy matches the description you were given. Sterling silver should be 925. Gold should carry the correct purity stamp. Plated jewellery should be described as plated. Stainless steel should be described as steel. When you buy from an authorised stockist, these descriptions are verified at source — we receive our stock directly from the brand or their official UK distributor, with full documentation of materials and provenance.

If you are ever unsure about a piece — whether you bought it from us, received it as a gift, or found it in a drawer — bring it into OD’s Jewellers on Barrow Street. We will inspect it, check the hallmarks, and tell you exactly what you have. No charge, no appointment needed. That is what an authorised stockist does.

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