Jewellery Materials Explained: What Every Brand Is Made Of
Every piece of jewellery we sell is built from specific materials chosen for a reason — durability, skin safety, visual effect, or price point. This guide explains the core materials used across our brands, what each one means in practical terms, and where to find the detailed brand-specific guides when you need the full picture.
Use this page as your starting point. Each section covers a material category at a high level, lists which of our brands use it, and links to the deeper guide. The brand reference table at the bottom pulls everything together in one view.
Understanding Jewellery Materials
The material a piece of jewellery is made from determines four things that matter day to day: how long it lasts, whether it reacts with your skin, how much care it needs, and what it is worth. Two rings can look identical in a photograph but behave completely differently on your hand if one is solid sterling silver and the other is plated brass.
Knowing the difference does not require a metallurgy degree. The basics are straightforward: precious metals (silver, gold) have intrinsic value and are measured in purity grades. Base metals (stainless steel, brass) are selected for strength, casting precision, or cost efficiency. Surface treatments (plating, PVD coating, rhodium finishing) add colour and protection on top of the base. And natural materials (gemstones, pearls, crystals) are set into the metalwork for visual effect and sometimes meaning.
The table below gives you a quick view of the main materials, which of our brands use them, and the key practical consideration for each.
| Material | Brands That Use It | Tarnish Risk | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sterling Silver (925) | ChloBo, Kit Heath, Clogau, Nomination | Moderate — needs polishing | Everyday wear, stacking, gifts |
| 9ct / 18ct Gold | Clogau | Very low | Investment pieces, heirlooms |
| Gold Plating / Vermeil | ChloBo, Kit Heath, VW, Olivia Burton | Low-moderate (plating wears) | Gold look without gold price |
| Stainless Steel (316L) | BOSS, Nomination, Coeur de Lion, Tommy Hilfiger | None | Sensitive skin, active wear |
| Brass (plated) | Vivienne Westwood | Low (plating protects) | Detailed designs, statement pieces |
| Crystals & Gemstones | ChloBo, Coeur de Lion, Swarovski, Olivia Burton | N/A (set stones) | Colour, meaning, sparkle |
Sterling Silver (925)
Sterling silver is an alloy of 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% copper, stamped with the hallmark 925. Pure silver is too soft for jewellery, so the copper adds structural strength while preserving the bright white lustre that silver is known for. It is the foundation material for ChloBo (every piece), Kit Heath (entire core range), and a key component in Clogau's two-tone Welsh gold designs. Nomination also uses sterling silver in select Classic Composable link charms.
The trade-off with sterling silver is tarnish. The copper content reacts with sulphur compounds in the air and on your skin, forming a dark patina over time. This is normal chemistry, not a defect. Regular wear actually slows tarnish because friction keeps the surface polished. Pieces stored unworn in open air tarnish faster. A polishing cloth restores the finish in seconds, and professional cleaning is rarely needed for well-maintained pieces.
Kit Heath addresses tarnish resistance through their AnchorCert Protect treatment — a transparent anti-tarnish coating applied to certain collections that delays oxidation without altering appearance. ChloBo pieces are untreated sterling silver, which means they develop a natural patina that many collectors prefer.
Care & Deep Dives
- How to Clean Tarnished Silver Jewellery — step-by-step care guide
- Kit Heath Materials & Surface Engineering Guide — AnchorCert Protect, rhodium plating, stone settings
- ChloBo Semi-Precious Stone & Pearl Guide — silver foundation + natural stone care
Gold: 9ct, 18ct, Plated & Vermeil
Gold in jewellery exists on a spectrum from solid to surface-level, and the differences in durability, value, and care are significant. Understanding the hierarchy prevents expensive surprises.
| Type | Gold Content | Durability | Brands at OD's |
|---|---|---|---|
| 18ct Solid (750) | 75% pure gold | Lifetime — will not wear away | Clogau, Nomination (link tops) |
| 9ct Solid (375) | 37.5% pure gold | Lifetime — harder than 18ct | Clogau |
| Gold Vermeil | Thick gold layer on silver | Years with care | Kit Heath (select) |
| Gold Plated | Thin gold layer on base | 12–24 months typical | ChloBo, VW, Olivia Burton |
Solid gold (9ct and 18ct) is the only type that retains its colour permanently. Clogau is the primary solid gold brand at OD's, combining Welsh gold with 9ct and 18ct yellow and rose gold in their signature two-tone style. Nomination uses 18ct gold on the raised detail of Classic Composable links, bonded to a stainless steel base.
Gold plating deposits a thin layer of gold onto another metal using electroplating. ChloBo plates onto sterling silver. Vivienne Westwood plates onto brass. Olivia Burton uses ion plating (PVD) onto stainless steel cases. Plating thickness varies by brand, and all plating wears over time through friction, chemicals, and moisture. This is maintenance, not a fault — the same way car paint needs attention over the years.
Vermeil (pronounced ver-may) is a specific standard: a thick layer of gold (minimum 2.5 microns) applied to sterling silver. It sits between plating and solid gold in both durability and price. Kit Heath offers vermeil finishes in select collections.
Stainless Steel (316L)
316L stainless steel is a surgical-grade alloy containing chromium, nickel, and molybdenum. The chromium forms an invisible oxide layer on the surface that prevents corrosion, which is why stainless steel jewellery does not tarnish, rust, or discolour under normal conditions. It is the most maintenance-free material in jewellery.
At OD's, stainless steel is the foundation material for BOSS jewellery (the entire men's and women's jewellery range), Nomination Classic Composable links (the base link that carries the decorative top), Coeur de Lion (the structural base in their GEOCube and wire-constructed pieces), and Tommy Hilfiger jewellery. Several of these brands then apply ionic plating (PVD) to achieve gold, rose gold, or black finishes on top of the steel without compromising the hypoallergenic properties.
Ionic plating (also called PVD — Physical Vapour Deposition) bonds colour at a molecular level rather than sitting on the surface like traditional electroplating. This makes PVD-coated stainless steel significantly more scratch-resistant than plated brass or plated silver. BOSS and Coeur de Lion both use this technique for their coloured metal finishes.
Deep Dive
- Coeur de Lion Materials & Construction Guide — 316L steel, PVD coatings, wire construction methods
Brass & Plated Metals
Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc. It is not a precious metal, but it is the material of choice for brands that prioritise intricate casting detail over precious metal content. The reason is practical: brass flows into fine moulds more precisely than silver or steel, allowing sharper edges, thinner walls, and more complex three-dimensional shapes. This is why Vivienne Westwood uses brass as their primary base metal — the Orb logo, relief lettering, and sculptural pendant forms demand a material that captures detail at sub-millimetre resolution.
All VW brass jewellery is plated to provide the finished colour and protect the base from oxidation. The plating types include rhodium (for silver-tone finish), gold (yellow gold tone), rose gold, and gunmetal. Rhodium is the hardest of these and lasts longest. Gold and rose gold plating wears at different rates depending on where the piece sits on the body — rings and bracelets experience more friction than necklaces, so plating on those pieces wears faster.
Plating wear is a normal characteristic of fashion jewellery, not a defect. The expected lifespan depends on how the piece is worn, how often it contacts water, perfume, and cleaning products, and whether it is stored properly. Removing jewellery before showering, swimming, and applying cosmetics is the single most effective way to extend plating life.
Re-plating is available through specialist jewellers and is a standard maintenance step for well-loved pieces, comparable to resoling a quality shoe. It restores the original finish completely.
Deep Dive
- Vivienne Westwood Materials & Plating Technical Guide — brass construction, plating types, durability by piece type, care instructions
Crystals, Gemstones & Pearls
Natural and precision-cut stones add colour, texture, and meaning to jewellery. The types used across our brands fall into three broad categories: precision-cut crystals (engineered for maximum light performance), semi-precious gemstones (natural minerals with individual character), and freshwater pearls (organic, each one unique).
Swarovski precision-cut crystals are manufactured in Austria using a proprietary formula and cut to exact mathematical angles that maximise brilliance. They are not natural gemstones but engineered glass with a high lead-oxide content for exceptional light refraction. Coeur de Lion uses both Swarovski crystals and natural gemstones in their GEOCube designs, often combining multiple stone types in a single piece alongside polished stainless steel and glass elements. ChloBo works with semi-precious stones including rose quartz, lapis lazuli, labradorite, and black onyx, each selected for both visual character and the spiritual meaning associated with ChloBo's mindfulness philosophy. ChloBo also uses freshwater pearls — genuine organic pearls with natural variations in shape, size, and surface lustre. Olivia Burton incorporates mother of pearl, semi-precious stone, and crystal elements into their watch dials and jewellery, using natural materials to create their signature floral and celestial aesthetic.
All natural stones and pearls require gentle handling. They are softer than metal and can chip, scratch, or lose lustre if exposed to chemicals, extreme heat, or sharp impact. Store stone-set pieces separately and clean with a soft dry cloth only.
Deep Dives
- ChloBo Semi-Precious Stone & Pearl Guide — stone properties, meanings, pearl grading, care
- Olivia Burton Natural Dial Materials Guide — mother of pearl, semi-precious dials, celestial flake technology
- Olivia Burton Finishes & Materials Guide — PVD plating, case materials, strap options
- Shop Swarovski at OD's Jewellers
Materials by Brand: Quick Reference
This table summarises the primary and secondary materials, tarnish risk, and key care point for every jewellery brand at OD's Jewellers. Use the guide link in the last column for the full technical breakdown.
| Brand | Primary Material | Secondary Materials | Tarnish Risk | Key Care Point | Guide |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ChloBo | 925 Sterling Silver | Gold plating, semi-precious stones, freshwater pearls | Moderate | Polish regularly; remove before water | Stone & Pearl Guide |
| Clogau | 9ct / 18ct Gold + Silver | Welsh gold, rose gold, diamonds | Very low | Store in pouch; professional clean annually | Brand Guide |
| Coeur de Lion | 316L Stainless Steel | PVD coatings, crystals, natural stones, glass | None (steel base) | Wipe with soft cloth; avoid chemical contact on stones | Materials Guide |
| Kit Heath | 925 Sterling Silver | Rhodium plating, gold vermeil, 18ct gold plate, gemstones | Low (AnchorCert Protect) | Anti-tarnish coating extends life; polish when needed | Materials Guide |
| Nomination | 316L Stainless Steel | 18ct gold, sterling silver, enamel, cubic zirconia | None (steel base) | Steel base is maintenance-free; gold tops are solid | Brand Guide |
| Olivia Burton | Stainless Steel (PVD plated) | Mother of pearl, semi-precious dials, crystals, vegan straps | Low (PVD coating) | Remove before water; store in box away from light | Finishes Guide |
| Swarovski | Rhodium / Gold-plated Metal | Precision-cut crystals, pearls, zirconia | Low (rhodium) | Avoid water, perfume, and abrasives on crystals | Shop Swarovski |
| BOSS | 316L Stainless Steel | Ionic plating (gold, rose gold, black) | None | Most durable option; wipe clean, no special care | Shop BOSS |
| Tommy Hilfiger | 316L Stainless Steel | Ionic plating, enamel | None | Maintenance-free; wipe with soft cloth | Shop Tommy Hilfiger |
| Vivienne Westwood | Brass | Rhodium, gold, rose gold, gunmetal plating; crystals | Low (plating protects) | Remove before water/perfume; store separately | Materials Guide |
Choosing by Material: What Suits You?
Not sure where to start? These four common priorities will point you to the right brands.
Sensitive Skin?
Choose stainless steel. BOSS, Tommy Hilfiger, and Nomination (base links) are fully hypoallergenic 316L surgical steel. Kit Heath's AnchorCert Protect sterling silver also reduces skin reactivity by preventing direct metal-skin contact.
Zero Maintenance?
Stainless steel brands require no polishing, no special storage, and no protection from water. BOSS and Tommy Hilfiger jewellery can be worn continuously without any care routine. Nomination base links are equally maintenance-free.
Investment Value?
Only solid gold holds and increases in value over time. Clogau's 9ct and 18ct gold pieces contain Welsh gold — one of the rarest golds in the world — with genuine investment and heirloom potential. Everything else is purchased for enjoyment, not appreciation.
Widest Range?
Sterling silver offers the largest selection of styles, prices, and designers. ChloBo and Kit Heath between them cover stacking, statement, everyday, and occasion jewellery — all in 925 silver with options for gold-plated and stone-set variations.
Top Picks at OD's — In Stock Now
Three best-sellers our customers are choosing this month — all in stock, ready to ship from St Helens, available to try in our St Helens store before you buy.
All available in-store at 41 Barrow Street, St Helens, WA10 1RY — try before you buy.
Browse the full jewellery range at OD's.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is 925 sterling silver?
925 sterling silver is an alloy containing 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% copper. The number 925 is a purity hallmark stamped on the metal. The copper content provides the structural strength that pure silver lacks while maintaining silver's characteristic bright white finish. At OD's, ChloBo, Kit Heath, and Clogau all use 925 sterling silver as their primary or secondary material.
Does stainless steel jewellery tarnish?
No. 316L stainless steel does not tarnish, rust, or corrode under normal wearing conditions. A chromium oxide layer forms naturally on the surface and acts as a permanent barrier against oxidation. This is why stainless steel jewellery from brands like BOSS, Tommy Hilfiger, Nomination, and Coeur de Lion requires no polishing or anti-tarnish storage.
What is the difference between gold plated and vermeil?
Gold plated jewellery has a thin layer of gold deposited onto a base metal (brass, steel, or silver) via electroplating. The gold layer is typically under 1 micron thick. Gold vermeil (pronounced ver-may) is a higher standard: a minimum of 2.5 microns of gold applied specifically to sterling silver. Vermeil lasts longer, has a richer colour, and holds more value because the base metal is itself precious. At OD's, Kit Heath offers vermeil finishes while ChloBo and Vivienne Westwood use standard gold plating.
Which jewellery material is best for sensitive skin?
316L stainless steel is the safest option for sensitive skin. It is classified as surgical grade, is nickel-safe in the quantities present, and does not react with sweat or moisture. At OD's, BOSS, Tommy Hilfiger, and Nomination base links are all 316L steel. Kit Heath's AnchorCert Protect coating on sterling silver also creates a barrier that reduces skin reactivity for silver-sensitive wearers.
Is brass jewellery safe to wear?
Yes, when plated. Raw brass can cause green discolouration on skin due to the copper content reacting with sweat. However, all brass jewellery sold at OD's (primarily Vivienne Westwood) is fully plated with rhodium, gold, or rose gold, which creates a barrier between the brass and your skin. Plating wear over time can expose small areas of the base metal — if this happens, re-plating restores the protective layer.
What is ionic plating?
Ionic plating, also called PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition), is a vacuum-based coating process that bonds colour to metal at a molecular level. Unlike traditional electroplating, which deposits a layer on the surface, PVD embeds the colour into the metal's surface structure. This makes it significantly more scratch-resistant and longer-lasting than conventional plating. BOSS, Coeur de Lion, and Olivia Burton all use PVD/ionic plating on stainless steel for their gold, rose gold, and black finishes.