Precious Metals
The metal a piece is made from decides its colour, its value, how it wears and how you care for it. This hub explains every metal we stock -- the golds (9ct and 18ct, yellow, white and rose, plus rare Welsh gold and vermeil), sterling silver and platinum, the platings and coatings that give an affordable precious look (gold plated, rhodium, ion and silver tone), and the base metals underneath. For each we explain what it is, whether it keeps its colour and how to look after it -- with links to our detailed guides on 925, silver vs white gold, rose gold and vermeil.
Precious metals at a glance
| Metal | What it is | Keeps colour? | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| 9ct / 18ct gold | Solid gold alloy | Yes (solid) | Fine, bridal, heirloom |
| Sterling silver 925 | 92.5% silver | Polishes back | Everyday fine jewellery |
| Platinum | Naturally white metal | Yes, permanent | Bridal, lifetime wear |
| Vermeil | Thick gold over silver | Wears slowly | Gold look, silver core |
| Gold plated | Thin gold over base | Wears over time | Affordable gold look |
| Stainless steel | Steel alloy | Yes, no tarnish | Modern, men's, composable |
Gold
Solid Gold (Karats)
Pure gold is 24ct but too soft to wear, so it is alloyed for strength. The karat number tells you how much is gold: 9ct, 14ct and 18ct are the common UK standards.
What karat means
Karat (ct) measures gold purity out of 24. 24ct is pure gold; 18ct is 75% gold; 14ct is about 58.5%; 9ct is 37.5%. The rest is other metals added for hardness and colour. A higher karat is richer in colour and value but softer; a lower karat is more hard-wearing and affordable.
Which to choose
9ct is the most common everyday gold in the UK -- durable and good value. 18ct has a warmer, deeper colour and a more luxurious feel, favoured for fine and bridal pieces. All genuine gold sold in the UK carries a hallmark -- see UK hallmarking.
Good to know
Karat (purity) is different from carat (gemstone weight). They sound the same but measure completely different things -- the measurements hub explains carat weight.
Yellow Gold
The classic warm gold colour, made by alloying pure gold with copper and silver. Timeless, hypoallergenic at higher karats and the traditional choice.
What it is
Yellow gold gets its warm tone from pure gold blended with copper and silver. The higher the karat, the deeper and richer the yellow. It is the most traditional gold colour and never really dates.
Why people choose it
Yellow gold flatters warm skin tones, suits both vintage and modern designs, and needs no plating to keep its colour -- so it does not wear thin the way plated finishes can.
In our range
Yellow gold features across fine pieces from brands such as Clogau and within our wider jewellery collection.
White Gold
Gold alloyed with white metals and usually finished with rhodium plating for a bright silvery-white shine. A modern classic -- and a frequent comparison with silver.
What it is
White gold is yellow gold mixed with white metals (such as palladium or silver) to neutralise the yellow, then typically plated with rhodium for a crisp white finish. It looks similar to platinum at a lower price.
White gold vs silver
They look alike but differ in value, weight and upkeep. Our silver vs white gold guide compares them in full -- in short, white gold is harder-wearing and more valuable; silver is more affordable.
Upkeep
The rhodium plating on white gold wears gradually and can be re-applied (replating) to restore the bright finish -- we cover this in the care hub.
Rose Gold
Gold with a higher copper content, giving a warm pink blush. Romantic, flattering on most skin tones and a firm modern favourite.
What it is
Rose gold (also called red or pink gold) is gold alloyed with a greater proportion of copper, which gives the metal its rosy hue. The more copper, the deeper the pink. Our rose gold guide explains the full story.
Why it is popular
The soft pink tone is warm and flattering, works beautifully with both white and yellow metals for mixing, and pairs especially well with morganite, diamonds and pearls.
Good to know
Solid rose gold keeps its colour for life. Rose-gold-plated or rose-gold-tone pieces have the colour applied as a coating, which is more affordable but wears over time.
Who makes it: Rose-gold-tone fashion pieces -- Olivia Burton, Coeur de Lion
Gold Vermeil
A thick layer of gold over solid sterling silver -- a recognised quality standard, far more substantial than ordinary gold plating.
What it is
Vermeil (pronounced 'ver-may') is sterling silver coated in a thick layer of gold, at least 2.5 microns and at least 10ct, by legal definition. The silver base makes it more valuable and longer-lasting than gold plating over brass.
Vermeil vs gold plated
The base metal and gold thickness are the difference. Our gold plated vs vermeil guide breaks it down: vermeil = thick gold over silver; gold plated = a thin gold layer over a base metal.
Good to know
Vermeil gives the look of solid gold at a fraction of the price, with the reassurance of a precious-metal core. Treat it gently to preserve the gold layer -- see the care hub.
Welsh Gold
Rare gold mined in Wales, prized for its heritage and scarcity. The signature of Clogau, who blend a touch of it into every piece.
What it is
Welsh gold is gold sourced from Welsh mines, historically among the rarest in the world. Its rarity and royal associations give it a heritage value beyond the metal itself -- our Welsh gold glossary entry has the background.
Clogau and Welsh gold
Clogau includes a guaranteed touch of rare Welsh gold in every piece they make, which is central to the brand's story and appeal. Read more in our Clogau guide.
Good to know
Because it is so scarce, pure Welsh-gold jewellery is exceptionally rare and valuable; most Welsh gold reaches buyers as a signature inclusion within a piece rather than the whole item.
Who makes it: Rare Welsh gold in every piece -- Clogau
Silver & platinum
Sterling Silver (925)
The standard for fine silver jewellery: 92.5% pure silver, the rest copper for strength. The '925' stamp is your guarantee.
What it is
Sterling silver is 92.5% pure silver alloyed with 7.5% copper, which adds the durability pure silver lacks. The 925 stamp certifies this standard -- our what does 925 mean guide explains where to find it and why it matters.
Why it is the standard
Sterling silver balances beauty, durability and value. It takes a brilliant polish, suits every style, and is the backbone of brands such as Kit Heath and ChloBo. For the best UK silver names see our best silver brands guide.
Care
Silver naturally tarnishes in air -- a harmless surface dulling that polishes away. Our care hub and tarnish guide show how to keep it bright.
Who makes it: British sterling silver -- Kit Heath; handmade silver -- ChloBo
Fine Silver (999)
Almost pure silver at 99.9%. Softer than sterling and used for specific designs where purity or a brighter white matters more than hardness.
What it is
Fine silver is 99.9% pure silver, stamped 999. With almost no alloy it is softer and more prone to scratching and bending than sterling, but it has a slightly brighter, whiter colour and resists tarnish a little better.
Where it is used
Fine silver suits pieces that do not take much knocking -- pendants, earrings and some chains -- and certain artisan and cast designs. For everyday rings and bracelets, harder-wearing sterling is usually the better choice.
Good to know
If a piece is stamped 999 it is fine silver; 925 is sterling. Both are real silver -- the number tells you the purity.
Platinum
A naturally white precious metal, denser and rarer than gold. Hypoallergenic, hard-wearing and the premium choice for fine and bridal jewellery.
What it is
Platinum is a dense, naturally white precious metal used at high purity (typically 95%). Unlike white gold it needs no rhodium plating to stay white -- its colour is permanent. It is heavier in the hand, which many people associate with quality.
Why people choose it
Platinum is exceptionally durable, naturally hypoallergenic and keeps its white colour for life with no replating. These qualities make it a favourite for engagement and wedding rings meant to last a lifetime.
Good to know
Platinum develops a soft surface patina over years of wear, which can be polished back to a high shine. It is the most premium of the everyday precious metals.
Plating & coatings
Gold Plated
A thin layer of gold bonded over a base metal. The most affordable way to get a gold look -- but the coating wears over time.
What it is
Gold plating is a thin layer of gold applied over a base metal such as brass. It gives the appearance of gold at a low price. The trade-off is that the thin layer wears with time and friction, eventually showing the metal beneath.
Plated vs vermeil vs solid
Thickness and base metal set them apart. Gold plated = thin gold over base metal; vermeil = thick gold over silver; solid gold is gold throughout. 18ct gold plating describes the gold quality of the layer.
Care
To make plating last, keep it away from perfume, water and friction, and store it dry. Our care hub has the full routine.
Rhodium Plating
A bright white precious-metal coating, usually over silver or white gold. It boosts shine, whiteness and tarnish resistance.
What it is
Rhodium is a rare, brilliant-white precious metal from the platinum family, applied as a thin plating. It is what gives white gold its crisp white finish and adds extra shine and protection to silver. Full detail in our rhodium plating entry.
What it does
Rhodium plating makes a piece brighter and whiter, helps resist scratches and slows tarnish. On white gold it neutralises any residual warmth for a clean white tone.
Upkeep
Rhodium wears gradually with daily wear and can be re-applied to refresh the finish -- known as replating, covered in the care hub.
Ion Plating (IP)
A modern, hard-wearing coating bonded under vacuum. Tougher and longer-lasting than traditional plating -- common on contemporary and men's pieces.
What it is
Ion plating (IP) bonds a coating to the metal using a vacuum process that creates a thinner but much harder, more durable layer than electroplating. Our ion plating entry explains the process.
Why it is used
IP resists scratching and fading far better than ordinary plating, so it holds its colour through daily wear. It is widely used for gold-tone, rose-gold-tone and black finishes on contemporary and men's jewellery.
In our range
IP finishes appear across modern fashion-jewellery brands; for men's styles see our men's jewellery.
Silver Tone & Plated
A silver-coloured finish achieved by plating rather than solid silver. Lets fashion jewellery offer the look affordably.
What it is
'Silver tone' or silver plated means a base metal finished to look like silver, rather than solid sterling. Our silver-tone plating entry covers what to expect. It is not the same as 925 sterling silver.
Why it is used
Plating keeps fashion and statement jewellery light and affordable while giving the silver look. It is ideal for on-trend pieces you want without a fine-jewellery price.
Good to know
If a piece is stamped 925 it is solid sterling silver; if it is described as silver tone or silver plated, the silver colour is a coating over another metal.
Base & alloy metals
Stainless Steel
A tough, corrosion-resistant alloy used widely in modern and men's jewellery. The base of Nomination's composable links.
What it is
Stainless steel is a hard, corrosion-resistant alloy of steel and chromium. It does not tarnish, resists scratches well and is hypoallergenic in its surgical grades, which makes it ideal for everyday and active wear.
Where it is used
Stainless steel is the backbone of Nomination's composable link system and features across contemporary and men's designs. It can be polished, brushed or PVD/ion-coated for different looks.
Good to know
Stainless steel is extremely low-maintenance -- a wipe with a soft cloth keeps it bright, with no tarnish to polish away.
Who makes it: Composable steel links -- Nomination
Brass & Base Metals
Affordable alloys -- chiefly brass -- used as the core of plated fashion jewellery. Knowing the base helps you judge wear and care.
What it is
Brass is a copper-and-zinc alloy with a warm gold-like colour, widely used as the base for plated and costume jewellery. Our brass entry has more. Other base metals include copper and various jewellery alloys.
Why it is used
Brass is inexpensive, easy to shape and takes plating well, so it is the practical core for fashion pieces finished in gold or silver tone. The finish you see is usually a plated layer over the brass.
Good to know
Bare brass can react with skin and tarnish; a good plating or lacquer protects it. Keep plated brass dry and away from perfume to make the finish last -- see the care hub.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between karat and carat?
Karat (ct) measures the purity of gold out of 24 -- 18ct is 75% gold, 9ct is 37.5%. Carat measures the weight of a gemstone such as a diamond. They sound identical but are completely different things; our measurements hub covers carat weight.
Is 9ct or 18ct gold better?
Neither is simply 'better' -- they suit different needs. 9ct has less pure gold so it is harder, more durable and more affordable, making it the UK everyday standard. 18ct has more gold, giving a richer colour and a more luxurious feel, but it is softer and dearer. Both are genuine, hallmarked gold.
What does 925 mean on jewellery?
925 means sterling silver -- 92.5% pure silver alloyed with 7.5% copper for strength. It is the recognised standard for quality silver jewellery. Full detail in our 925 guide and 925 glossary entry.
What is the difference between silver and white gold?
They look similar but white gold is gold alloyed with white metals and rhodium-plated, making it harder-wearing and more valuable; sterling silver is 92.5% silver and more affordable. Our silver vs white gold guide compares them fully.
What is gold vermeil?
Vermeil is sterling silver coated in a thick layer of gold (at least 2.5 microns, 10ct or higher by law). The solid silver core makes it more valuable and durable than gold plating over brass. See our gold plated vs vermeil guide.
What is the difference between gold plated and vermeil?
Gold plated is a thin gold layer over any base metal (often brass); vermeil is a thicker gold layer over solid sterling silver. Vermeil lasts longer and holds more value because of the silver core and thicker gold. Our comparison guide explains.
What is rose gold?
Rose gold is gold alloyed with a higher proportion of copper, which gives it a warm pink tone. The more copper, the deeper the rose. Solid rose gold keeps its colour for life. See our rose gold guide.
What is rhodium plating?
Rhodium is a brilliant-white precious metal applied as a thin plating, usually over white gold or silver, to boost whiteness, shine and tarnish resistance. It wears gradually and can be re-applied. See our rhodium plating entry.
Why does silver tarnish and is it a fault?
Tarnish is a harmless, natural reaction between silver and the air that dulls the surface; it is not a fault or a sign of poor quality. It polishes away easily. Our tarnish guide and care hub show how.
Is platinum better than white gold?
Platinum is naturally white, more durable and never needs replating, but it costs more. White gold gives a very similar look at a lower price, with occasional rhodium replating to keep it bright. The right choice depends on budget and how much upkeep you want.
What is Welsh gold and why is it special?
Welsh gold is gold mined in Wales -- historically among the world's rarest, with royal associations that give it heritage value. Clogau includes a touch of rare Welsh gold in every piece. See our Welsh gold entry.
Will gold-plated jewellery wear off?
Yes, in time -- gold plating is a thin layer that gradually wears with friction, water and perfume, eventually showing the base metal. You can extend its life by keeping it dry and away from chemicals. Vermeil and solid gold last far longer. See the care hub.
Is stainless steel good for jewellery?
Yes -- stainless steel is tough, corrosion-resistant, does not tarnish and is hypoallergenic in surgical grades, which makes it excellent for everyday and men's pieces. It is the base of Nomination's composable links.
Which metal is best for sensitive skin?
Platinum, higher-karat gold and surgical stainless steel are the most hypoallergenic. Sterling silver suits most people. Reactions usually come from nickel in some base-metal alloys, so solid precious metals are the safest choice for sensitive skin.
How do I know what metal my jewellery is?
Look for a hallmark or stamp: 925 for sterling silver, 375/9ct, 585/14ct or 750/18ct for gold, 950 for platinum. UK fine metals are legally hallmarked -- see our UK hallmarking entry. Plated and tone finishes are usually described as such rather than stamped for purity.