Construction & Settings
Beautiful jewellery is also clever engineering. This hub explains how pieces are actually built -- the stone settings that hold and show off a gem (prong, bezel, pave, channel and halo), the chains and links that carry a pendant, the clasps that fasten it and the small findings that join everything together. Knowing the difference helps you choose a piece that suits your life -- sparkly or secure, delicate or sturdy, easy to fasten or built to add charms.
Settings at a glance
| Setting | How it holds the stone | Sparkle | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Prong / claw | Slim claws over the edge | Highest | Solitaires, studs |
| Bezel / rubover | Full metal rim | Softer | Active wear, softer stones |
| Pave | Tiny shared beads | All-over shimmer | Bands, halos |
| Channel | Row between two rails | Smooth row | Eternity, wedding bands |
| Cluster / halo | Grouped small stones | Big for budget | Statement rings, pendants |
Stone settings
Prong (Claw) Setting
Tiny metal claws grip the stone and lift it into the light. The classic, sparkliest way to set a solitaire.
What it is
A prong or claw setting holds a stone with three, four or six slim metal prongs bent over its edge. It is the traditional setting for solitaire rings. Full detail in our prong setting entry.
Why people choose it
Because so little metal touches the stone, light floods in from every side and the gem looks its biggest and brightest. It is the go-to for engagement rings and sparkly studs.
Good to know
Prongs can catch and, over years, wear thin -- it is worth having them checked occasionally. See our care hub.
Who makes it: Claw-set cubic zirconia -- Diamonfire
Bezel (Rubover) Setting
A rim of metal wrapped fully around the stone. The most secure, snag-free setting -- and a modern look.
What it is
A bezel, or rubover, setting surrounds the stone with a continuous collar of metal that holds it firmly in place. Our bezel setting entry explains it in full.
Why people choose it
It is the most protective setting -- nothing to catch on clothing and the stone edge is shielded from knocks. Ideal for active wear and for softer stones.
Good to know
A bezel covers a little more of the stone than claws do, so the gem can look slightly smaller but sits sleek and contemporary.
Pave Setting
Many tiny stones set close together so the metal seems paved with sparkle. Maximum shimmer across a surface.
What it is
Pave (from the French for 'paved') sets lots of small stones side by side, held by tiny shared beads of metal, so a band or motif appears carpeted in sparkle.
Why people choose it
It adds brilliance and a luxurious, all-over twinkle to bands, halos and statement pieces without large single stones. A favourite on dress and occasion jewellery.
Good to know
With many small stones held by fine beads, a gentle touch and the odd check keeps every stone secure -- see the care hub.
Channel Setting
Stones sit in a row between two metal walls, flush and protected. Clean lines and a snag-free finish.
What it is
A channel setting drops a line of stones into a groove between two raised metal rails, holding them by their edges with no prongs in between.
Why people choose it
It gives a smooth, modern row of sparkle that sits flush with the band -- comfortable, secure and ideal for eternity rings and wedding bands.
Good to know
Because the stones are protected on both sides, channel settings cope well with everyday wear.
Cluster & Halo Settings
Small stones grouped around a centre to look like one larger gem. Big sparkle for the budget.
What it is
A cluster gathers several small stones into a single decorative head; a halo rings a central stone with a circle of smaller ones to make it look bigger and brighter.
Why people choose it
These settings deliver generous presence and sparkle for the price, since many small stones cost less than one large one. Popular for statement rings and pendants.
Good to know
More stones means more small settings to look after, so the occasional check keeps everything tight.
Chains & links
Cable & Trace Chain
Simple oval links joined in a row -- the everyday, versatile chain behind most pendants.
What it is
A cable (or trace) chain is the classic design of uniform oval links connected one to the next. It is the most common chain for pendants and everyday necklaces.
Why people choose it
It is light, strong for its weight and understated, letting a pendant take centre stage. A dependable all-rounder.
In our range
Cable and trace chains run throughout our necklaces and pendant necklaces. Chain lengths are explained in the measurements hub.
Who makes it: Pendant chains -- Kit Heath, Clogau
Curb & Figaro Chain
Flattened, interlocking links that lie flat to the skin. A bolder, more masculine staple.
What it is
A curb chain has uniform links twisted and flattened so they sit flush; a Figaro variation mixes longer links with short ones in a repeating pattern.
Why people choose it
Curb and Figaro chains are sturdy, lie flat and have a confident, classic look -- popular for men's jewellery and worn alone or with a pendant.
In our range
Find curb and Figaro styles across our necklaces and bracelets.
Rope & Singapore Chain
Links twisted to mimic a rope, catching light all the way round. Lots of sparkle in a slim chain.
What it is
A rope chain twists many small links into a spiral that looks like braided rope; a Singapore chain is a fine, twisted version that shimmers as it moves.
Why people choose it
The twist catches light from every angle, so these chains sparkle on their own and feel dressier than a plain cable. Lovely for delicate, eye-catching necklaces.
Good to know
Finer rope and Singapore chains are best treated gently to avoid kinks -- store them flat or hung, as in the care hub.
Snake & Box Chain
Smooth, sleek chains with a continuous surface -- ideal for sliding pendants and charms.
What it is
A snake chain links tiny plates into a smooth, flexible tube; a box chain forms square links into a neat, continuous line. Both have a clean, modern surface.
Why people choose it
Their smooth profile suits sliding pendants and slider charms and gives a sleek, contemporary feel. The box chain is also strong for its slim size.
In our range
Snake and box chains feature across brand necklaces and charm-friendly designs.
Clasps & fastenings
Lobster (Trigger) Clasp
The secure, spring-loaded claw clasp found on most modern necklaces and bracelets.
What it is
A lobster clasp is a small spring-loaded claw you pinch open to hook onto a ring at the other end. It is the most common modern fastening.
Why people choose it
It is secure, easy to use and strong -- a reliable everyday closure for necklaces and bracelets.
Good to know
Larger lobster clasps are easier to work with one-handed, which helps with fiddly bracelet fastenings.
Bolt Ring & Spring Clasps
The classic round spring clasp -- neat, traditional and discreet.
What it is
A bolt ring (spring ring) is a small round clasp with a spring-loaded gate you push open with a tiny lever, then hook onto a jump ring.
Why people choose it
It is light, neat and traditional, sitting discreetly on fine chains. A long-standing favourite for delicate necklaces.
Good to know
The small lever can be fiddly with cold fingers; for ease of use some prefer a lobster or magnetic clasp.
Toggle & Magnetic Clasps
Easy-fastening clasps -- a T-bar through a ring, or a self-closing magnet. Great for one-handed use.
What it is
A toggle clasp passes a decorative T-bar through a ring to fasten; a magnetic clasp snaps shut on its own. Both are designed for easy fastening.
Why people choose it
They are quick and simple to use, which is ideal for bracelets and for anyone who finds tiny clasps awkward. Toggles also add a design feature to the piece.
In our range
Easy-fasten clasps appear across statement designs from brands such as Coeur de Lion.
Who makes it: Easy-fasten statement clasps -- Coeur de Lion
Findings & components
Earring Fittings
The backs and hooks that hold earrings -- studs, hooks, levers and clips. The bit that matters for comfort.
What it is
Earring fittings are the parts that secure an earring: butterfly and screw backs for studs, fish-hook and lever-back wires for drops, and clip-ons for unpierced ears.
Why it matters
The fitting decides comfort and security. Screw and lever backs hold heavier earrings safely; hooks suit light drops; clips suit unpierced ears.
Good to know
For sensitive ears look for sterling silver or surgical-grade posts -- see metals in our precious metals hub.
Jump Rings & Findings
The small connectors -- jump rings, bails and links -- that join a piece together and let charms attach.
What it is
Findings are the small functional parts of jewellery: jump rings that link components, bails that hang a pendant on a chain, and connectors that build a design.
Why it matters
Good findings keep a piece secure and let you customise it -- adding charms, swapping pendants or extending a chain. The link-based composable system by Nomination is built entirely on this idea.
In our range
Charm-friendly findings underpin our charms, charm bracelets and links.
Who makes it: Link-built composable bracelets -- Nomination
Frequently asked questions
What is the most secure setting for a stone?
A bezel (rubover) setting is generally the most secure, as a continuous rim of metal wraps right around the stone and protects its edge. It is ideal for active wear and softer stones. See our bezel setting entry.
What is the difference between a prong and a bezel setting?
Prongs are slim metal claws that grip the stone and let in maximum light for sparkle; a bezel wraps the stone fully in metal for security and a sleek, snag-free look. Claws sparkle more, bezels protect more. See our prong and bezel entries.
What is a pave setting?
Pave sets many tiny stones close together, held by small shared beads of metal, so the surface appears paved with continuous sparkle. It adds all-over brilliance to bands, halos and statement pieces without large single stones.
Which chain is strongest for everyday wear?
Curb and box chains are among the sturdiest for their size and lie or sit neatly, making them good everyday choices. Very fine rope or Singapore chains look beautiful but are more delicate. Chain lengths are covered in our measurements hub.
What is the difference between a cable and a curb chain?
A cable (trace) chain is a row of uniform oval links and is light and understated; a curb chain has flattened, interlocking links that lie flat and look bolder. Cable suits delicate pendants, curb suits a stronger, more masculine look.
What is the best clasp for a bracelet?
A lobster clasp is secure and easy to use, while toggle and magnetic clasps are easiest for one-handed fastening. If you struggle with tiny clasps, a magnetic or toggle closure makes putting a bracelet on much simpler.
What is a lobster clasp?
A lobster (trigger) clasp is a small spring-loaded claw you pinch open to hook onto a ring. It is the most common modern fastening because it is secure, strong and easy to use on necklaces and bracelets.
What does 'findings' mean in jewellery?
Findings are the small functional parts that hold a piece together -- jump rings, clasps, bails, earring backs and connectors. Good findings keep jewellery secure and let you customise it, such as adding charms or swapping pendants.
What is a halo setting?
A halo setting rings a central stone with a circle of smaller stones, making the centre look bigger and brighter and adding extra sparkle. It is a popular way to get generous presence for the budget on rings and pendants.
What earring fitting is best for sensitive ears?
Look for sterling silver or surgical-grade posts, and for heavier earrings a screw or lever back for security. The fitting affects both comfort and how safely the earring stays in -- see metals in our precious metals hub.
Can I add charms to any bracelet?
It depends on the system. Link-based bracelets such as the composable system by Nomination are built to add and swap links and charms; slider charms need a smooth snake or box chain; traditional charms hang from jump rings. See our charm bracelets.
What is a channel setting?
A channel setting holds a row of stones in a groove between two raised metal walls, with no prongs in between. It gives a smooth, protected line of sparkle that sits flush with the band, which is why it suits eternity and wedding rings.
Why do prongs need checking over time?
Prongs are slim and do the work of holding the stone, so years of wear can thin or loosen them. An occasional check (and re-tipping if needed) keeps the stone safe. Our care hub explains routine checks.
What is a bail on a necklace?
A bail is the small loop or fitting at the top of a pendant that the chain passes through, letting the pendant hang. It is one of the everyday findings that make a piece wearable and adjustable.