How To Choose Watch
Choosing a watch is one of the most personal purchasing decisions you will make. Unlike most accessories, a watch is worn daily, visible constantly, and often kept for years. Getting it right matters — which is why this guide covers everything from movement mechanics and case sizing to budget brackets and how to buy for someone else.
At OD's Jewellers in St Helens we stock watches from Tissot, Citizen, BOSS, Tommy Hilfiger, Olivia Burton, and Vivienne Westwood. Our team advises customers in-store every day on exactly these questions. This guide distils that expertise.
1 | Movement Types
The movement is the engine inside the watch. It is the single most important technical decision you make when buying a watch — it determines accuracy, maintenance requirements, and the experience of wearing the watch day to day. There are three movement types you will encounter in the mid-market.
Quartz
A quartz movement is battery-powered. An electrical signal from the battery causes a tiny quartz crystal to vibrate at exactly 32,768 times per second, which a circuit converts into precise timekeeping. Quartz is the most accurate and lowest-maintenance movement available at any price point.
Quartz — Advantages
Highly accurate (typically ±15 seconds per month). No winding or wearing required. Minimal servicing — a battery change every 1–3 years is usually all that is needed. Thinner case profiles possible. Excellent value at entry level.
Quartz — Considerations
Requires battery replacement. The second hand moves in discrete ticks rather than a smooth sweep. No mechanical craftsmanship story — some buyers find this less interesting. Battery disposal has a small environmental footprint.
Quartz Movements at OD's
- Miyota (Citizen-owned) — reliable Japanese quartz used across many mid-market brands
- Ronda (Swiss) — Swiss-made quartz found in fashion watches and entry Swiss models
- ETA (Swatch Group) — found in Tissot quartz models including the PRX and Seastar 1000
Automatic (Self-Winding Mechanical)
An automatic watch contains a mechanical mainspring wound by the natural motion of your wrist via a rotating rotor. No battery is required. The mainspring stores energy and releases it gradually through a series of precision gears to drive the hands. When worn regularly, an automatic watch never needs manual winding.
Automatic — Advantages
No battery ever needed. The smooth sweep of the second hand is visually distinct and often preferred. Mechanical craftsmanship and heritage. Many automatic movements are visible through a case back. Can be serviced and run indefinitely.
Automatic — Considerations
Less accurate than quartz (typically ±10–30 seconds per day). Requires regular wearing or a watch winder to stay wound. Needs professional servicing every 4–5 years. Generally thicker case profiles due to movement depth. Higher entry price than equivalent quartz.
Power Reserve Explained
- Standard automatic: 38–42 hours of reserve when fully wound
- Tissot Powermatic 80: 80 hours — take it off Friday night, it runs until Monday morning
- Extended reserve (72h+): found in higher-end calibres and some fashion automatics
Solar / Eco-Drive
Solar watches convert any light source — sunlight or indoor artificial light — into electrical energy stored in a rechargeable capacitor. Citizen pioneered this technology under the Eco-Drive name and it has become the brand's defining feature. Solar movements are essentially quartz movements powered indefinitely by light rather than a disposable battery.
Solar — Advantages
No battery replacement ever. A full charge provides 6 months of reserve even in total darkness. Quartz-level accuracy (±15 seconds per month). Lower long-term running costs. Environmentally preferable to disposable batteries.
Solar — Considerations
Requires exposure to light to recharge — storing in a dark drawer for months will eventually deplete the capacitor. The capacitor itself may need replacement after 10–20 years (a professional service item). A slightly higher entry price than equivalent standard quartz.
Which Movement Should You Choose?
For low-maintenance, everyday accuracy: quartz or solar. For a mechanical experience, visible craftsmanship, or a watch that will run without a battery: automatic. For a deep dive on each, see our Watch Movement Types guide.
2 | Case Size Guide
Case size is the single most visible element of watch fit. A case that is too large looks dominant and will overhang the wrist; one that is too small disappears. The right size creates a clean, proportionate finish at the cuff.
Case size is measured in millimetres across the diameter of the watch face, not including the crown. Lug-to-lug distance (the length of the case from top to bottom strap attachment) matters equally but is less commonly listed — ask in-store.
| Wrist Circumference | Recommended Case Size | Examples at OD's |
|---|---|---|
| Under 6" (slim) | 28–34mm | Olivia Burton 28–30mm, Tissot Lovely 29mm |
| 6"–6.5" (small-medium) | 34–38mm | Tissot PRX 35mm, Citizen EW ladies models |
| 6.5"–7.5" (medium) | 38–42mm | Tissot PRX 40mm, BOSS Candor 44mm sits fine here |
| 7.5"–8" (large) | 42–44mm | Citizen Promaster 44mm, Tommy Hilfiger 46mm sport |
| Over 8" | 44–46mm | Citizen Promaster Diver, BOSS large dial sport models |
How to Measure Your Wrist
- Use a soft tape measure or a strip of paper around the narrowest part of your wrist
- Measure in inches or centimetres and convert
- Add 1–1.5cm to find your comfortable strap length
- These are guidelines only — personal preference and dial style both affect perceived fit. Try on in-store for a definitive answer
Case Thickness
Dress watches are typically 6–9mm thick. Sports watches run 10–14mm. Dive watches can reach 14–18mm. Thicker watches sit higher on the wrist and may not slide under shirt cuffs — a consideration if the watch will be worn formally.
Dial Shape
Round dials are the universal standard and flatter every wrist size. Square, rectangular, and octagonal cases are stylistic choices — Vivienne Westwood's Orb and tonneau cases are intentionally unconventional and suit those wanting something distinctive.
3 | Case & Bracelet Materials
The case material determines the watch's weight, scratch resistance, durability, and skin sensitivity. Most mid-market watches use stainless steel as the baseline, with premium alternatives available.
Stainless Steel (316L)
The industry standard. Corrosion-resistant, hypoallergenic, and durable. Polished finishes show scratches over time; brushed finishes hide wear better. Heavy but considered a premium feel. Used across Tissot, BOSS, Tommy Hilfiger, and Citizen.
Titanium
Around 40% lighter than steel with superior corrosion resistance. Naturally hypoallergenic — ideal for sensitive skin. Slightly softer than steel so surface scratches appear more readily. Found in Citizen Promaster and professional sport models.
Ceramic
Extremely scratch-resistant and maintains its finish over years of wear. Lightweight and hypoallergenic. Brittle compared to metal — can shatter under impact rather than dent. Used for bezels on dive watches and as full cases on luxury pieces.
PVD / IP Plating
Physical Vapour Deposition applies a hard coating to stainless steel to create gold, rose gold, or black finishes. More durable than traditional plating but will show wear on high-contact areas over several years. Common in BOSS and Tommy Hilfiger fashion watches.
Nickel Sensitivity
316L surgical stainless steel is nickel-free at a practical level and is safe for the vast majority of sensitive skin. If you have a confirmed severe nickel allergy, titanium is the safest case material. Plated cases may present a slightly higher sensitivity risk over time as the coating wears.
4 | Crystal Types
The crystal is the transparent cover over the dial. It protects the dial and hands from dust, moisture, and impact. The material determines scratch resistance and the cost of replacement if damaged.
Mineral Glass
Tempered glass that is harder than standard glass but softer than sapphire. More scratch-prone but less likely to shatter on impact. The standard crystal at entry and mid-market price points. Scratches can sometimes be polished out by a watchmaker.
Sapphire Crystal
Synthetic sapphire is the hardest watch crystal available (9 on the Mohs scale, diamond is 10). Virtually scratch-proof in normal use. It will crack or shatter under a sharp direct impact where mineral glass would flex. Standard on Tissot and higher-spec Citizen models. Anti-reflective coatings improve legibility further.
Hardlex
Seiko's proprietary mineral glass variant, treated for enhanced scratch resistance. Sits between standard mineral and sapphire in hardness. Found on mid-range Seiko watches (not stocked at OD's but relevant for comparisons). Better than standard mineral glass; not as hard as sapphire.
Acrylic (Hesalite)
Plastic crystal used historically and on some retro/heritage models. Scratches easily but polishes out completely. Extremely shatter-resistant. Rarely found on new watches in the mid-market; more common in vintage or entry-level pieces.
Our Recommendation
- Best scratch protection: sapphire crystal — standard on Tissot across the range
- Best impact resistance: mineral or Hardlex (flex rather than shatter)
- Everyday wear, active lifestyle: sapphire with AR coating is the optimal combination
5 | Water Resistance Explained
Water resistance ratings are widely misunderstood. The ATM or metre rating on a watch does not translate directly into real-world use — the ratings are set under static laboratory conditions, not dynamic pressure from swimming or diving.
| Rating | What It Actually Means | Real-World Suitability |
|---|---|---|
| 30m / 3 ATM | Splash resistant only | Rain, hand washing. No submersion. |
| 50m / 5 ATM | Shallow water resistant | Brief surface swimming. No diving or jumping in. |
| 100m / 10 ATM | Swimming resistant | Swimming, snorkelling. No scuba diving. |
| 200m / 20 ATM | Diver-grade | Recreational scuba diving. Meets ISO 6425 if certified. |
| 300m+ | Professional dive | Professional diving. Citizen Promaster territory. |
Practical Rules
- Never operate pushers or the crown underwater, regardless of the rating
- Hot water (showers, hot tubs) degrades seals faster than cold — avoid if possible
- Have water resistance tested annually if you use your watch regularly in water
- A watch's water resistance decreases with age as seals degrade — retest after any service
At OD's Jewellers, BOSS and Tommy Hilfiger fashion watches typically offer 30–50m, suitable for daily life. Tissot sport models and Citizen Promaster models offer 100m–300m+ for genuinely active use.
6 | Strap Types
The strap or bracelet shapes how the watch feels, how it wears over time, and how it can be styled. Many watches support interchangeable straps — a useful feature that allows one watch to serve multiple occasions.
Steel Bracelet
The most classic watch strap. Durable, adjustable, and dressier than leather for most styles. Links can be removed or added for size. Integrated bracelets (where the bracelet flows seamlessly from the case, as on the Tissot PRX) command a premium look. Can scratch over time.
Leather Strap
Traditional and versatile. Genuine leather softens and moulds to the wrist over time. Avoid regular water exposure — leather degrades with moisture. Calfskin is the most common; alligator and ostrich are premium alternatives. BOSS and Tommy Hilfiger both offer leather variants across their ranges.
NATO Strap
A single-piece nylon strap threaded through both spring bars. Originally military-issue. Inexpensive, colourful, and easy to swap. Extremely comfortable in summer. Adds bulk — not suitable under a formal cuff. Popular on Tissot PRX and Seastar models as a casual alternative.
Mesh (Milanese)
Woven stainless steel creating a flexible, breathable bracelet. Adjustable without tools via a slide clasp. Sits flat against the wrist and suits both casual and smart wear. Common on Olivia Burton and BOSS ladies' models. Some fashion brands use plated mesh.
Rubber / Silicone
The practical choice for sport and dive watches. Waterproof, light, and comfortable. Citizen Promaster dive and sport models use rubber as standard. Less formal but hardwearing and low maintenance.
Fabric / Woven
Canvas or woven nylon straps offer a casual, lightweight alternative. Often found on field-style and retro watches. Not suitable for regular water exposure. Easy to swap and personalise.
Strap Swapping
Most watches with standard lug widths (18mm, 20mm, 22mm) can accept any third-party or brand strap. OD's can assist with strap changes in-store. Integrated bracelets (Tissot PRX, certain BOSS models) are proprietary and require the matching bracelet.
7 | Budget Brackets & What to Expect
Price reflects movement quality, case materials, crystal type, and brand positioning. The jump from £100 to £250 typically gains you a sapphire crystal and a more substantial case. The jump from £250 to £500 often brings a Swiss movement. Above £500, you are entering mechanical territory or Swiss-made with significant brand heritage.
£75–£200 | Fashion & Entry
Quartz movements. Mineral glass. Plated or alloy cases. Brands: Tommy Hilfiger entry, BOSS entry, Olivia Burton. Best for: first watches, trend-led buying, gift budgets. What you get: strong design, brand identity, reliable quartz. What you don't get: Swiss manufacture, sapphire crystal, serious water resistance.
£200–£400 | Mid-Market
Japanese or Swiss quartz. Sapphire or Hardlex crystals appearing. Stainless steel cases standard. Brands: Citizen Eco-Drive core range, Tissot entry (Everytime, PR100), BOSS higher lines. What you get: meaningful upgrade in materials and movement quality. Solar technology available. Proper water resistance to 100m.
£400–£700 | Accessible Swiss / Premium Japanese
Swiss-made quartz standard. Automatic movements entering. Sapphire crystal standard. Brands: Tissot PRX, Seastar 1000, Citizen Promaster, higher BOSS automatics. What you get: Swiss Made credentials, mechanical movement options, professional-spec water resistance, sapphire crystal, heirloom quality construction.
£700–£1,200 | Swiss Automatic
Swiss automatic movements. Extended power reserves. Premium finishing. Brands: Tissot Powermatic 80 range (Le Locle, Gentleman, PRX Automatic). What you get: genuine Swiss mechanical watches with long service intervals, superior finishing, and a watch that can last generations with proper care.
A Note on Value
- A £350 Citizen Eco-Drive will outlast a £150 fashion watch by years with zero battery cost
- A £640 Tissot Powermatic 80 can be serviced and worn for 40+ years — the cost per year of ownership is very low
- Fashion watches at £150 are designed to a price point — the movement is often a commodity unit, the value is in the design
- Buying from an authorised retailer like OD's Jewellers ensures full manufacturer warranty
8 | Buying a Watch as a Gift
A watch is one of the most considered gifts you can give. It is worn daily, often for years, and chosen deliberately. Getting it right requires thinking about the recipient's wrist size, style preferences, and lifestyle — not just the budget.
Key Questions to Ask Before Buying
- What wrist size do they have? If you don't know, err smaller — a 36–40mm watch works on most wrists
- What is their lifestyle? Active or outdoor = higher water resistance, rubber strap. Office or formal = steel or leather
- Do they prefer minimalist or detailed dials? Olivia Burton for botanical / feminine; BOSS for clean modern; Tissot for classic precision
- What metal tones do they wear? Silver jewellery = steel or silver-toned watch. Gold jewellery = gold PVD
- Is this a significant occasion? Birthdays and anniversaries justify the budget increase to something Swiss-made or automatic
Gift Buying by Occasion
18th or 21st Birthday
A first proper watch. Citizen Eco-Drive at £200–£300 is practical and long-lasting. Tissot PRX from £290 is a watch they will still wear at 40. Olivia Burton for a style-led ladies' choice.
Anniversary or Milestone
Invest in something they will keep. Tissot automatic from £500 or Citizen Promaster at £350–£500 are watches with genuine longevity and technical credibility. BOSS automatic £300–£400 for a fashion-forward choice.
Christmas or Birthday (Budget £100–£200)
Tommy Hilfiger and BOSS entry ranges offer strong design at accessible price points. Olivia Burton in the £80–£150 range. Look for genuine leather or mesh straps at this level for perceived quality.
Father's Day
Tissot PRX quartz from £290 — one of the best-looking Swiss watches at the price. Citizen Tsuyosa automatic £280. BOSS Candor or similar chrono at £200–£300.
When In Doubt, Visit Us In-Store
The team at OD's Jewellers at 41 Barrow Street, St Helens will help you choose the right watch for any recipient and any occasion. We can hold watches, assist with sizing questions, and advise on the full range. Call us on 01744 730985 or visit Monday to Saturday, 9am to 5pm.
9 | Where OD's Watch Brands Fit
OD's Jewellers stocks watches across the fashion, accessible Swiss, and professional Japanese segments. Here is how each brand sits within the broader market and what it does best.
Tissot — Swiss Entry Luxury
Swiss Made since 1853. Powermatic 80 automatic movements. Sapphire crystals standard. The benchmark for accessible Swiss watches. PRX is the centrepiece — delivers the look of a much more expensive watch. Entry from £182 (quartz); automatics from £500. Shop Tissot →
Citizen — Solar Technology Leader
Japanese precision manufacturer and inventor of Eco-Drive solar technology. Zero battery cost for life. Promaster range covers professional dive, aviation, and field use. The Tsuyosa is a gateway automatic. Entry from £149; Promaster from £300. Shop Citizen →
BOSS — Modern Fashion Watch
Clean, contemporary design language aligned with Hugo Boss menswear. Japanese quartz and automatic options. Strong bracelet and leather variety. The Candor, Ikon, and Trophy ranges cover 38–46mm with a modern aesthetic. Entry from £149; automatics from £279. Shop BOSS →
Tommy Hilfiger — American Casual
Bold dials, preppy styling, and strong colour variety. Japanese quartz standard. Good water resistance (50m typical). Best suited to casual to smart-casual wear. Excellent gift option at £99–£199. Automatic skeleton models available for mechanical interest at £199–£279. Shop Tommy Hilfiger →
Olivia Burton — Feminine & Botanical
British brand known for floral dials, pastel colourways, and mesh or leather straps. Strong gifting choice for women. 28–36mm cases. Japanese quartz. Detailed dial art including bees, butterflies, and botanical prints. Entry from £79. Shop Olivia Burton →
Vivienne Westwood — British Eccentric
Unconventional case shapes, Orb logos, and high-fashion design. For buyers who want a watch as a statement piece rather than a precision instrument. Japanese quartz. Strong leather and mesh strap variety. Entry from £149. Shop Vivienne Westwood →
Top Picks at OD's — In Stock Now
Three best-sellers our customers are choosing this month — all in stock, ready to ship from St Helens, available to try in our St Helens store before you buy.
All available in-store at 41 Barrow Street, St Helens, WA10 1RY — try before you buy.
Browse the full jewellery range at OD's.
10 | Frequently Asked Questions
What size watch should I buy for a 7-inch wrist?
A 7-inch wrist sits in the medium range. Case sizes of 38–42mm will fit proportionately and look correct. The Tissot PRX 40mm, Citizen 40mm Tsuyosa, and BOSS 42–44mm models are all well-suited. If in doubt, try on in-store at OD's Jewellers — fit is always more reliable assessed in person than estimated from measurements.
Is quartz or automatic better for everyday wear?
For pure everyday practicality, quartz or solar is the better choice — it requires no winding, stays accurate to within seconds per month, and needs only a battery change every couple of years (or never, with Eco-Drive). Automatic watches are a more considered choice for buyers who value mechanical craftsmanship, the experience of a sweeping second hand, and the idea of a watch that requires no battery. Both are excellent daily wearers.
Can I swim with my watch?
It depends on the water resistance rating. A 30m or 3 ATM rating is splash-resistant only — not suitable for swimming. A 100m / 10 ATM rating is suitable for swimming and snorkelling. A 200m+ rating is required for recreational diving. Check the specification of your specific model. Tissot Seastar, Citizen Promaster, and select BOSS Sport models offer 100m+ for active water use.
What is the best watch to buy as a gift at around £200?
At £200, Citizen Eco-Drive is the standout choice for practical longevity — no battery changes ever and Japanese-quality quartz accuracy. The Tissot Everytime or PR100 entry models offer Swiss-made credibility from around £180–£285. For a fashion-forward ladies' choice, Olivia Burton and BOSS entry lines offer excellent design at £150–200. Visit OD's Jewellers in St Helens and we will show you the best options for your specific recipient.
Is sapphire crystal worth paying for?
For a watch you intend to wear daily for years, yes. Sapphire crystal is virtually scratch-proof in normal use, which means the dial face stays clear and legible indefinitely. Mineral glass watches will develop fine surface scratches over time that dull the appearance. Tissot includes sapphire crystal as standard across its range — one of the reasons it represents strong value at the accessible Swiss price point.
Where can I buy watches in St Helens?
OD's Jewellers is at 41 Barrow Street, St Helens, WA10 1RY. We are an authorised stockist for Tissot, Citizen, BOSS, Tommy Hilfiger, Olivia Burton, and Vivienne Westwood watches. We are open Monday to Saturday, 9am to 5pm. Call us on 01744 730985 or browse our collections online to find the right watch before visiting.