How to Authenticate Your Jewellery: Hallmarks & Verification by Brand

Why Authentication Matters

The UK jewellery market loses an estimated hundreds of millions of pounds each year to counterfeits. The problem is not limited to luxury Swiss watches or designer handbags — fashion and contemporary jewellery brands are targeted just as aggressively. Nomination bracelets, Vivienne Westwood pendants, and branded silver pieces are among the most commonly counterfeited items in the UK jewellery market.

The channels driving this are well known. Marketplace platforms such as eBay, Amazon third-party sellers, Vinted, and Depop host a mixture of genuine resale and counterfeit goods with no systematic authentication at the point of listing. Social media resellers on Instagram, Facebook Marketplace, and TikTok Shop operate with even less oversight. Websites that mimic official brand domains — often with subtle URL variations — look convincing enough to deceive careful buyers.

The single most reliable authentication method for any jewellery brand is buying from an authorised retailer. An authorised stockist receives inventory directly from the brand or its appointed distributor. Every piece arrives with verified packaging, documentation, and — where applicable — hallmarking that can be traced back to source. No amount of stamp-checking or weight-measuring replaces that chain of custody.

That said, this guide exists because not everyone buys new. If you have received a piece as a gift, inherited jewellery, or are considering a pre-owned purchase, knowing what to look for is essential. The sections below cover each brand’s specific authentication markers, hallmarking rules, and red flags.

UK Hallmarking Explained

The Hallmarking Act 1973 is the UK law that governs the marking of precious metals. It is one of the oldest forms of consumer protection in the world — hallmarking in England dates back to 1300. The law requires that articles made of gold, silver, platinum, or palladium must be independently tested and marked by an Assay Office before they can be described as being made of that metal.

What the Marks Mean

A full UK hallmark contains up to five elements. The first three are compulsory on qualifying items:

Assay Office Marks

Weight Thresholds

Not all precious metal items require hallmarking. The Hallmarking Act sets minimum weight thresholds below which hallmarking is not compulsory:

Understanding hallmarking is essential because two of the four brands in this guide — Vivienne Westwood and Kit Heath — produce sterling silver jewellery subject to UK hallmarking law. Nomination operates under Italian regulations (no UK hallmarks expected), and Coeur De Lion uses 316L stainless steel (not a precious metal, so hallmarking does not apply).

How to Authenticate Nomination Jewellery

Nomination is an Italian brand, manufactured in Sesto Fiorentino in the province of Florence. This matters for authentication because Italy does not require independent hallmarking of precious metals. Italy operates a voluntary self-declaration system where manufacturers apply their own marks. This is fundamentally different from the UK system, and it means one critical thing: the absence of UK-style hallmarks on Nomination jewellery is normal and expected. It reflects a regulatory difference between Italy and Britain, not a question of authenticity.

The Rear Stamp

The primary authentication marker on a Nomination composable bracelet is the stamp on the rear of each decorated link. Genuine links carry the engraving “STAINLESS STEEL ®NOMINATION”. Check for:

• Sharpness: The text should be cleanly engraved with crisp, consistent edges
• Letter spacing: Even distribution across the available surface — not cramped or stretched
• Registered trademark symbol (®): Must be present and correctly positioned before “NOMINATION”
• Component links: Plain base links (those forming the chain) carry the Nomination logo on the front face

Italian Maker’s Mark

Since 1968, Italian manufacturers of precious metals have used a standardised maker’s mark format: a five-pointed star on the left, the maker’s registration number in the centre, and a two-letter regional code on the right. Nomination’s regional code corresponds to the Florence (FI) province. This mark may appear on links containing precious metals.

Precious Metal Fineness

These fineness values are manufacturer-declared under the Italian system. The stamp confirms the branding tooling was used, but it does not independently verify precious metal content — that would require a separate assay test.

Packaging & Documentation

• Signature Nomination branded packaging specific to the product type
• Warranty certificate — must be validated with the stamp and signature of the authorised retailer to activate the 24-month product guarantee
• Receipt with purchase date

Verification

The single most reliable pre-purchase authentication step is the Nomination public store locator on the official Nomination website. If the retailer is not listed, the warranty does not apply, and the supply chain cannot be verified. Marketplace and social media purchases do not carry the guarantee.

How to Authenticate Vivienne Westwood Jewellery

Vivienne Westwood jewellery spans two distinct material categories, and the authentication approach differs for each. Fine pieces use 925 sterling silver and are subject to UK hallmarking law. Classic and Fashion lines use a brass substrate and are not precious metal — so hallmarking does not apply. A brass-based Vivienne Westwood piece is entirely genuine without any hallmark. A sterling silver piece weighing over 7.78g without a hallmark is a different matter.

Hallmarking on Sterling Silver Pieces

Sterling silver Vivienne Westwood pieces exceeding 7.78g must carry a full UK hallmark under the Hallmarking Act 1973. The four compulsory elements are:

1. Sponsor’s Mark: The brand’s Orb symbol or the initials “VW”
2. Standard Mark “925”: Confirms sterling silver at 925 parts per 1,000
3. Assay Office Mark: Leopard’s Head (London), Anchor (Birmingham), or Rose (Sheffield)
4. Date Letter: Specific font and border denoting the year of hallmarking

Marks are typically located on the clasp, inside a pendant bail, or on a small metal tag near the fastening. The absence of any element — particularly the Assay Office Mark — on a piece claimed to be sterling silver and weighing over 7.78g is a significant authentication concern.

Weight Benchmarks

Weight is one of the more reliable authentication checks for Vivienne Westwood. Counterfeits are typically cast from alternative alloys that are lighter than the genuine article. Production tolerance is approximately +/- 0.5g.

The Orb: Proportional Accuracy

The Vivienne Westwood Orb is the brand’s most recognisable design element, and it is also where counterfeit production most commonly fails. Genuine Orb characteristics:

• Cross-top: Sits vertically centred above the sphere, proportional to overall Orb height
• Satellite ring: Symmetrical on both sides at a consistent angle (the “Saturn’s rings” element)
• Sphere: Clean definition with smooth, uniform surface texture

Common counterfeit distortions include a crooked or off-centre cross-top, asymmetrical satellite rings, and a sphere that appears “blobby” rather than cleanly cast. These defects result from secondary moulds that introduce dimensional loss with each generation of copying.

Pearl Strand Verification

Crystal Settings

Vivienne Westwood has historically used Swarovski crystals across the core collection. Recent lines (Mayfair, Neysa variants) now reference Preciosa crystals. The authentication focus should be on the setting quality, not the crystal brand:

• Genuine: Pave settings use small metal grains (prongs) to hold each stone securely and symmetrically
• Counterfeit: Uneven alignment, visible adhesive residue, stones set at inconsistent depths

Packaging (Post-2021)

Modern authentic Vivienne Westwood packaging uses 100% wood pulp boxes (~40% recycled content), dust bags for all core items, FSC-certified paper authenticity cards (plastic-free), and 100% recycled cardboard transit packaging. Common counterfeit packaging errors include logos that are not perfectly centred, incorrect font spacing on care leaflets, and plastic-based authenticity cards instead of paper. Typography and material errors in the packaging are often more visible than construction flaws in the jewellery itself.

How to Authenticate Coeur De Lion Jewellery

Coeur De Lion is a German brand. Every piece is hand-assembled in Stuttgart. The base material is 316L stainless steel, which is not a precious metal — so UK hallmarking law does not apply. Authentication relies instead on a combination of three primary markers that should all be present on new, boxed pieces.

The Three Primary Markers

PVD Coating vs Flash Plating

One of the most telling differences between genuine Coeur De Lion and counterfeits is the coating. Genuine pieces use PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) coatings, which are denser, harder, and more chemically stable than the flash plating (under 1 micron thickness) used on counterfeits. Flash-plated pieces degrade rapidly — within weeks of regular wear — while genuine PVD coatings maintain their finish over years.

Stone Quality

Coeur De Lion uses a combination of natural stones and precision-cut crystals. Counterfeit substitutions typically involve plastic or dyed glass:

• Plastic substitutes: Lighter and warmer to the touch than genuine stones. Hold them against your lower lip — genuine stone or crystal feels noticeably cooler
• Natural stone variation: Genuine natural stones show subtle colour variation and inclusions. Perfectly uniform colour across every stone in a piece is more likely to indicate synthetic or dyed material
• Crystal refraction: Genuine precision-cut crystals exhibit clean light refraction. Counterfeits often appear cloudy or flat

Assembly Quality

Hand-assembled in Stuttgart means attention to detail that mass-produced counterfeits cannot replicate. Check for symmetrical stone placement, clean crimping on wire ends, no visible adhesive residue, and even spacing between elements. Poorly aligned stones, rough crimps, or glue overflow are counterfeit indicators.

Verification

Coeur De Lion operates a global Store Finder database on its official website. Verify that the retailer is listed as an authorised stockist before purchasing. OD’s Jewellers is a listed authorised Coeur De Lion stockist.

How to Authenticate Kit Heath Jewellery

Kit Heath is a British brand producing sterling silver jewellery. It is the most straightforward authentication case in this guide because Kit Heath pieces are subject to full UK hallmarking under the Hallmarking Act 1973, and the brand follows the system rigorously.

Reading a Kit Heath Hallmark

A full Kit Heath hallmark on a qualifying piece (7.78g or above) contains:

1. Sponsor’s Mark — “KH”: Identifies Kit Heath as the manufacturer. Registered with UK Assay Offices and unique to Kit Heath. Provides a traceable link to the maker.
2. Fineness Mark — “925”: Confirms the alloy contains 92.5% pure silver. Displayed in an oval shield shape that identifies the metal as silver.
3. Assay Office Mark: Typically the Anchor (Birmingham), as Kit Heath primarily uses the Birmingham Assay Office. The Leopard’s Head (London), Rose (Sheffield), or Castle (Edinburgh) may also appear.

Optional marks include the Lion Passant (the traditional walking lion symbol for sterling silver) and the Date Letter (a letter in a specific font and shield shape that changes every 1 January, useful for dating pre-owned pieces).

Pieces Under 7.78g

Small earrings, delicate pendants, and lightweight rings may weigh less than 7.78g. These pieces are legally exempt from compulsory Assay Office hallmarking. However, Kit Heath typically applies its own “925” and “KH” marks even on lighter pieces. These are manufacturer-applied marks, not Assay Office verified, but their presence is still a positive authentication indicator. A lightweight Kit Heath piece without any marks at all warrants closer inspection.

AnchorCert Protect

This is Kit Heath’s standout authentication and safety differentiator. AnchorCert Protect is an advanced safety testing standard developed by the Birmingham Assay Office that goes significantly beyond basic regulatory compliance:

AnchorCert Protect is UKAS-accredited (United Kingdom Accreditation Service). A piece can be fully REACH-compliant and still trigger allergic reactions from metals not covered by the basic standard. Kit Heath’s commitment to the extended testing protocol is a genuine differentiator and a strong authenticity signal — counterfeits do not carry this certification.

Packaging & Documentation

• Official Kit Heath branded presentation box
• Warranty documentation verifying a two-year product guarantee
• Both should accompany any new purchase from an authorised retailer

Quick Authentication Checklist

This cross-brand comparison table summarises the key authentication markers for all four brands at a glance. Use it as a quick reference when inspecting a piece or evaluating a purchase.

Red Flags: How to Spot Fake Jewellery

While each brand has its own specific counterfeit tells (covered in the sections above), there are universal warning signs that apply across all jewellery brands. If any of the following are present, proceed with extreme caution.

Universal Red Flags

• Extreme discounts: If the price is 40–60% below RRP with no clear explanation (sale event, end of line, authorised clearance), the piece is likely counterfeit or stolen. Genuine brands control their wholesale pricing tightly.
• Missing packaging: No branded box, no dust bag, no certificate, no warranty card. Counterfeits frequently ship in generic packaging or plastic bags.
• Missing or poorly formed stamps: Blurred text, uneven letter spacing, misspelled brand names, or stamps that look like they have been applied with a different tool than the original.
• Marketplace purchases: eBay, Amazon third-party sellers, Vinted, Depop, and Facebook Marketplace do not authenticate jewellery at the point of listing. Genuine pieces exist on these platforms, but so do counterfeits — and there is no systematic way to tell them apart from a listing photo.
• Social media sellers: Instagram pages, TikTok Shop accounts, and WhatsApp resellers operating without a verifiable business address, returns policy, or brand authorisation.
• Linguistic errors: Spelling mistakes, awkward phrasing, or machine-translated product descriptions on websites claiming to sell branded jewellery.
• URL mimicry: Websites with brand names embedded in the URL but not matching the official domain (e.g. “nomination-jewellery-uk-shop.com” instead of “nomination.com”).
• No returns or refund policy: Legitimate retailers always have a clear returns policy. Sellers who refuse returns or only accept if the item is “unused and sealed” are often selling counterfeits.

Brand-Specific Counterfeit Tells

Why Buy from an Authorised Retailer?

Every section of this guide arrives at the same conclusion: the most reliable way to know your jewellery is genuine is to buy from an authorised retailer. There is a reason for that, and it is not a sales pitch — it is how the brand distribution system actually works.

What “Authorised” Actually Means

An authorised retailer has a direct commercial relationship with the brand or its appointed UK distributor. Inventory arrives through a controlled supply chain: manufacturer → distributor → authorised retailer → customer. Every piece is tracked, documented, and backed by the brand’s own quality checks before it reaches the shop floor.

This is not the case for marketplace sellers, social media resellers, or unauthorised online stores. Their supply chains are unverified. The piece may be genuine (bought elsewhere and resold), or it may not be. There is no way to confirm from a listing photograph.

What You Get from OD’s

• Verified authenticity: Every piece we sell is sourced directly from the brand or its UK distributor. No grey market, no parallel imports, no unverified stock.
• Full documentation: Certificates, warranty cards, and branded packaging — stamped and signed by us as the authorised retailer where required.
• In-store inspection: Bring any piece — whether bought from us or elsewhere — and we will assess it in person. We handle these brands daily and can identify markers that are difficult to evaluate from photographs alone.
• Aftercare: Resizing, polishing, cleaning advice, and assistance with warranty claims. We are the point of contact between you and the brand.
• Brand training: Our team receives regular training from brand representatives. We know the current collections, packaging changes, and authentication markers for each season.

Brands We Are Authorised to Stock

OD’s Jewellers is an authorised retailer for all four brands covered in this guide — Nomination, Vivienne Westwood, Coeur De Lion, and Kit Heath — as well as ChloBo, Swarovski, D for Diamond, Fiorelli, Elements, Gecko, and more. Our authorisation can be verified through each brand’s official store locator.

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Frequently Asked Questions