Tissot Le Locle Watch Guide
This is a supporting guide to our main Tissot Brand Guide. It focuses specifically on the Le Locle collection — its heritage, design codes, movements, and how to choose the right model.
1 | Overview
The Tissot Le Locle is the brand's flagship dress watch collection, named after Tissot's founding town in the Swiss Jura mountains.
Launched in 2003 to mark Tissot's 150th anniversary, the Le Locle translates traditional Swiss watchmaking aesthetics into a modern automatic timepiece. The collection is defined by Roman numerals, guilloche dial textures, and classical feuille (leaf) hands — design codes drawn directly from the architecture of Le Locle itself.
Most current Le Locle models feature sapphire exhibition or semi-exhibition casebacks, allowing a partial or full view of the automatic movement.
2 | Collection Origin
The Le Locle collection launched in 2003 as a 150th anniversary commemoration of Tissot's founding.
Le Locle is a UNESCO World Heritage site in the Neuchatel mountains, recognised for its unique urban planning designed around the watchmaking trade. Tissot has maintained headquarters here since Charles-Felicien Tissot and his son Charles-Emile founded the company in 1853.
Design Inspiration
The specific design came from the clock tower of the Temple du Locle (Church of Le Locle). In 19th-century Switzerland, the church clock was the civic time authority. The Le Locle watch translates this tower's slender Roman numerals and formal aesthetic onto a 39mm dial. The model name “Le Locle” appears in italic script on the dial at 6 o'clock.
3 | Design Language
Dial: Clous de Paris Guilloche
Rows of tiny pyramidal shapes creating a textured, light-catching surface. Roman numerals are usually applied (raised) rather than printed, casting subtle shadows that enhance perceived quality.
Hands: Feuille (Leaf) Style
Classical style with a wide curved middle tapering to fine points at both ends. Typically polished steel or gold-plated, though some editions feature blued steel using traditional thermal techniques.
Split-Window Caseback
Rather than a fully open display, the Le Locle features two semi-circular apertures bridged by engraved scrollwork — reminiscent of the cuvette (dust cover) found on antique pocket watches.
Dial Colours
Silver, black, white, and more recently green variants. The Clous de Paris texture is typically confined to the central zone or outer ring, separated by smooth tracks for hour markers.
4 | Model Hierarchy
| Model | Case Size | Movement | Distinguishing Feature |
|---|---|---|---|
| Le Locle Powermatic 80 | 39.3mm | Powermatic 80 | Standard three-hand with date |
| Le Locle Open Heart | 39.3mm | Powermatic 80 | Aperture at 12 o'clock revealing balance wheel |
| Le Locle Valjoux Chronograph | 42mm | Valjoux 7750 | Integrated chronograph with day-date |
| Le Locle Regulator | 39.3mm | ETA 2825-2 | Separate hour/minute/seconds displays |
| Le Locle Lady | 29mm | Powermatic 80 | Mother-of-pearl dials, diamond indices |
5 | Case Architecture & Sizing
The Le Locle is designed as a true dress watch — slim enough to slide under a shirt cuff.
| Model | Diameter | Thickness | Recommended Wrist |
|---|---|---|---|
| Le Locle (Men's) | 39.3mm | ~9.8mm | 6–7.5 inches |
| Le Locle Chronograph | 42mm | ~14mm | 6.5–8 inches |
| Le Locle Lady | 29mm | ~8mm | 5–6.5 inches |
Fit Notes
The 39.3mm case sits in the “Goldilocks” zone between vintage proportions (34–36mm) and modern sizing (41–42mm). Short, downward-curving lugs ensure a close fit. The slim 9.8mm profile is specifically engineered for dress wear.
6 | Movement Specifications
Powermatic 80 (Standard)
ETA C07.111. 80-hour power reserve at 3Hz (21,600 vph). Friday evening to Monday morning without wearing. Nivachron balance spring for enhanced magnetic resistance.
Valjoux 7750 (Chronograph)
Proven integrated chronograph workhorse. Day-date complication with classic 6-9-12 sub-dial layout. Known for long-term reliability.
7 | Care & Ownership
Le Locle Care Essentials
- Water resistance typically 30m (3 bar) — splash resistant only, not suitable for swimming
- Store on a soft surface to protect the polished case
- Automatic models benefit from servicing every 4–5 years
- All models supplied with 2-year international warranty
For general watch care guidance, see our Watch Care Guide.
Shop Le Locle at OD's
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8 | Frequently Asked Questions
Is the Le Locle suitable for everyday wear?
The Le Locle is designed as a dress watch with 30m water resistance (splash resistant only). It is perfect for office and formal wear but should not be worn for swimming, sports, or heavy manual work. For everyday versatility, consider the PRX or Seastar instead.
What is the Clous de Paris guilloche on the dial?
Clous de Paris (“Nails of Paris”) is a traditional guilloche pattern of tiny pyramidal shapes creating a textured, light-catching surface. It is a hallmark of classical Swiss watchmaking and gives the Le Locle dial its distinctive visual depth.
How long does the power reserve last?
The Powermatic 80 movement provides an 80-hour power reserve. You can take the watch off on Friday evening and it will still be running on Monday morning without winding.