Watch Movements Explained
The movement is the most important technical element of any watch. It determines how the watch keeps time, how much maintenance it requires, what the second hand looks like in motion, and how long the watch will run before it needs attention. Yet most buyers focus entirely on the dial, the case, and the strap — and give the movement little thought until something goes wrong.
This guide explains exactly how each movement type works, what makes them different in practical use, and which brands at OD's Jewellers use which technology. Read this before you buy and you will make a more confident, better-informed choice.
1 | Quartz Movements
Quartz is the most widely used watch movement in the world. It powers the majority of watches sold at every price point from £20 to £500. Its dominance comes from a straightforward proposition: excellent accuracy, minimal maintenance, and low production cost relative to mechanical alternatives.
How Quartz Works
A small battery sends an electrical current through a synthetic quartz crystal. The crystal vibrates at a precise and consistent frequency — exactly 32,768 times per second. A circuit counts these vibrations and converts them into one electrical pulse per second, which drives a stepper motor to advance the hands. Every tick of a quartz watch's second hand represents one of these counted pulses.
The Quartz Movement Sequence
- Battery sends electrical current to the quartz crystal
- Crystal vibrates at 32,768 Hz — a fixed, stable frequency
- Circuit counts vibrations, outputs one pulse per second
- Stepper motor converts the electrical pulse into mechanical hand movement
- Gear train drives the hour, minute, and second hands
Accuracy
A standard quartz movement is accurate to approximately ±15 seconds per month — or about ±3 minutes per year. Higher-specification quartz calibres achieve ±10 seconds per year. This is substantially more accurate than any mechanical or automatic movement in normal use.
Maintenance
Quartz watches require a battery replacement every 1–3 years depending on the model and complications. A standard battery change takes minutes and costs little. Beyond battery replacement, quartz movements rarely need intervention unless physically damaged. There is no oil degradation concern on the same scale as mechanical movements.
The Tick
The defining visual characteristic of a quartz watch is the way the second hand moves: one precise jump per second. This is the “tick”. Many buyers find it perfectly acceptable; some prefer the smooth sweep of a mechanical movement. This is a matter of personal preference, not technical quality.
Quartz Movement Manufacturers
Miyota (Citizen Group)
Japan's most widely-used quartz calibre manufacturer. Reliable, proven, and found in watches from entry-level to mid-market. Miyota quartz powers many fashion watch brands including BOSS and Tommy Hilfiger. Accuracy typically ±15 seconds per month. Battery life 2–3 years.
Ronda (Switzerland)
Swiss-made quartz calibres found in fashion and entry Swiss watches. A step above standard Japanese quartz in Swiss market positioning. Accuracy similar to Miyota. Found in some Vivienne Westwood and Olivia Burton models.
ETA (Swatch Group)
Switzerland's dominant movement manufacturer. ETA quartz calibres are found in Tissot quartz models including the PRX quartz and Seastar 1000 quartz. Swiss Made certified. High accuracy, excellent reliability.
ISA (Switzerland)
Swiss quartz calibres used by fashion and mid-market brands. ISA movements are common in watches carrying the ‘Swiss Made’ designation at entry price points. Solid and reliable; less technically distinguished than ETA.
Who Quartz Suits
Quartz is the right choice for buyers who want accuracy above all else, dislike the idea of battery replacements on an automatic movement service interval of 4–5 years, or who want the lowest ongoing cost. It suits everyday wear, travel (jet-setting through time zones is easier to reset on quartz), and watches that may be put on and taken off frequently without regard for winding.
2 | Automatic (Self-Winding Mechanical) Movements
An automatic watch is a mechanical watch that winds itself. It contains no battery and no electronics. The energy that powers the movement comes entirely from a coiled mainspring — a ribbon of metal that stores tension and releases it gradually through a series of precision-engineered gears and levers.
How Automatic Movements Work
When you move your wrist, a weighted rotor inside the watch rotates. This rotor is connected via a mechanism that converts its rotation into winding of the mainspring. When you wear an automatic watch regularly, it self-winds continuously and maintains its power reserve without any intervention from you.
The Automatic Movement Sequence
- Rotor rotates with wrist movement (or can be wound manually via the crown)
- Ratchet mechanism converts rotor rotation into one-directional mainspring winding
- Mainspring stores energy in coiled tension as it winds tighter
- Gear train releases this energy gradually, driving the movement
- Escapement regulates the release of energy in precise intervals — the heart of the movement
- Balance wheel oscillates back and forth at a fixed frequency, controlling the escapement
- Gear train to hands translates the regulated energy into hand movement
The Sweep Second Hand
The balance wheel in a standard automatic oscillates at 6–8 beats per second (3–4 Hz). Each beat advances the second hand by a small increment, creating the characteristic smooth sweep rather than the discrete tick of quartz. On a 28,800 bph (8 beats per second) movement, the second hand appears to glide continuously. This is the visual signature of mechanical watchmaking that many buyers specifically seek out.
Power Reserve
When fully wound, a mechanical movement runs for a fixed period before the mainspring fully unwinds and the watch stops. This is the power reserve. A standard automatic provides 38–42 hours of reserve — enough to survive a night and a day unworn. Extended reserve movements offer more.
Power Reserve at OD's
- Standard (38–42 hours): BOSS automatic, Tommy Hilfiger automatic, most mid-market automatics. Take off Saturday night, reset and wear Monday.
- Tissot Powermatic 80 (80 hours): Take off Friday evening, it runs until Monday morning without missing a beat. One of the longest reserves at this price point.
- Citizen Tsuyosa automatic (42 hours): Standard reserve with Miyota 8215 calibre — the workhorse of accessible automatics.
Accuracy
Automatic movements are less accurate than quartz. A typical automatic will gain or lose between 10 and 30 seconds per day in normal wear. This is affected by how the watch is worn, temperature, and the position it is stored in. A watch lying flat runs slightly differently from one standing upright. This variation is not a defect — it is inherent to mechanical timekeeping and is part of the character of owning an automatic watch.
The Tissot Powermatic 80
The Powermatic 80 is Tissot's signature in-house automatic calibre and one of the most technically impressive movements at its price point. It achieves its 80-hour power reserve through a reduced-frequency oscillation (3 Hz rather than 4 Hz), which extends the mainspring's energy release without sacrificing legibility. The movement also incorporates a Nivachron silicon alloy hairspring that is anti-magnetic and unaffected by temperature variation — improving accuracy in real-world conditions beyond what the beat rate alone suggests.
Powermatic 80 — Key Figures
Beat rate: 3 Hz (21,600 bph). Power reserve: 80 hours. Accuracy: typically ±1 minute per day. Hairspring: Nivachron (silicon alloy, anti-magnetic). Visible rotor through exhibition case back on most models.
Powermatic 80 — Where to Find It
PRX Powermatic 80. Le Locle Powermatic 80. Gentleman Powermatic 80. Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80. Available from £500 at OD's Jewellers. Shop Tissot automatics →
Servicing Automatic Watches
Mechanical movements use oil to lubricate the gear train, escapement, and jewels. This oil degrades over time — typically 4–5 years for most movements. A full service involves disassembly, cleaning, replacement of worn components, re-oiling, and timing adjustment. This is a professional watchmaker operation and costs more than a quartz battery change, but the intervals are much longer. A well-serviced automatic watch can last generations.
Who Automatic Suits
Automatic suits buyers who value the craft and history behind mechanical watchmaking, want the visual experience of a sweeping second hand, intend to wear the watch daily (keeping it wound), and want a watch that requires no battery, ever. It is also the right choice for buyers who see the watch as something to keep and pass on — the serviceability and longevity of a quality automatic far exceeds any battery-dependent movement.
3 | Solar / Eco-Drive Movements
Solar movements are quartz movements powered by light rather than a disposable battery. Citizen invented and commercially perfected this technology under the Eco-Drive name, first launched in 1976 and refined continuously since. Today, Eco-Drive powers the majority of Citizen's catalogue and represents the brand's defining technical contribution to watchmaking.
How Solar / Eco-Drive Works
A photovoltaic cell beneath the watch dial (transparent enough to allow light through while displaying the dial design) converts light energy — any light, not just sunlight — into electrical current. This current charges a rechargeable lithium-ion or capacitor cell inside the watch. The stored energy then powers the quartz movement in exactly the same way as a standard battery, with the critical difference that the cell recharges continuously rather than depleting to zero.
The Eco-Drive Sequence
- Light source (sunlight, artificial indoor light, any light) strikes the dial
- Photovoltaic cell beneath the dial converts light to electrical current
- Rechargeable capacitor stores the electrical energy for use
- Quartz movement draws power from the capacitor to keep accurate time
- Power reserve indicator (on many models) shows remaining charge level
Power Reserve in the Dark
A fully charged Eco-Drive capacitor provides approximately 6 months of reserve in complete darkness. In practice, normal daily wear in any indoor or outdoor environment keeps the watch fully charged without the wearer ever needing to think about it. A watch stored in a dark drawer will eventually deplete, but this takes months — not days.
Charging Times
Direct Sunlight Charging
Full charge from empty: approximately 2–5 hours in direct sunlight (depending on model). Emergency charge for 1 day of operation: approximately 2 minutes in direct sunlight. The fastest and most efficient charging method.
Indoor Artificial Light Charging
Full charge from empty: approximately 10–30 hours under standard fluorescent or LED office lighting. This means a watch on your desk in a normally lit office recharges slowly but continuously during a working day.
Accuracy
Eco-Drive is fundamentally a quartz movement. Accuracy is the same as quartz: approximately ±15 seconds per month for standard calibres. Higher-specification Eco-Drive calibres with radio-controlled atomic timekeeping (Citizen's ‘Atomic’ range) achieve accuracy to within ±1 second over 100,000 years by synchronising daily with radio time signals.
The Capacitor Over Time
Unlike a battery that depletes and must be replaced, the Eco-Drive capacitor recharges indefinitely — but it does not last forever. After approximately 10–20 years, the capacitor's ability to hold charge degrades and it may need professional replacement. This is a relatively inexpensive service item compared to a full movement overhaul, and significantly cheaper than replacing batteries every 2 years across the same period.
Who Solar / Eco-Drive Suits
Eco-Drive suits buyers who want zero ongoing battery cost, a low-maintenance watch they can wear daily without any servicing concerns for many years, and the accuracy of quartz. It is especially suited to environmentally-conscious buyers who prefer not to dispose of batteries. It is the pragmatic choice: the advantages of quartz with the battery-free convenience of a self-sustaining power source.
4 | Spring Drive — For Reference Only
The Spring Drive is a Seiko-exclusive movement technology mentioned here for completeness, as customers sometimes ask about it when researching movements. OD's Jewellers does not stock Seiko, so this section is reference information only.
The Spring Drive combines a mechanical mainspring (like an automatic) with an electronic regulator (replacing the mechanical escapement). The mainspring powers the movement without a battery, and a glide wheel is regulated by a quartz oscillator and electromagnetic brake rather than a traditional lever escapement. The result is an extraordinarily smooth, continuous sweep of the second hand and an accuracy of approximately ±1 second per day — far beyond any standard automatic.
Spring Drive technology is found in Grand Seiko watches from approximately £3,000 upward. It is not relevant to the watch categories stocked at OD's Jewellers, but understanding it helps contextualise how the three main movement types compare at a technical level.
5 | Movement Comparison Table
A direct side-by-side comparison of all three movement types across the criteria that matter in everyday ownership.
| Criterion | Quartz | Automatic | Solar / Eco-Drive |
|---|---|---|---|
| Power source | Disposable battery | Mainspring (wrist motion) | Light (rechargeable capacitor) |
| Accuracy | ±15 sec / month | ±10–30 sec / day | ±15 sec / month |
| Maintenance interval | Battery every 1–3 years | Service every 4–5 years | Capacitor after 10–20 years |
| Ongoing running cost | Low (battery) | Medium (service) | Lowest (light-powered) |
| Second hand motion | Discrete tick (1 per sec) | Smooth sweep | Discrete tick (1 per sec) |
| Battery required? | Yes | No | No |
| Case thickness | Slim possible | Typically thicker | Slim possible |
| Can stop if unworn? | No (battery lasts) | Yes (after 38–80 hrs) | No (6-month reserve) |
| Entry price at OD's | From £79 (Olivia Burton) | From £199 (Tommy/BOSS) | From £149 (Citizen) |
| Environmental footprint | Battery disposal | Minimal (oil service) | Lowest (no battery waste) |
Reading the Table
- No movement type is objectively “best” — each suits different buyer priorities
- Accuracy favours quartz and solar; craftsmanship experience favours automatic
- Lowest long-term cost of ownership is solar; lowest entry price is quartz
- The smooth sweep second hand is only available on automatic movements at OD's
6 | OD's Brands by Movement Type
Here is exactly which movement types each brand at OD's Jewellers uses, so you can match your movement preference directly to a brand and collection.
Tissot — Quartz & Automatic
Quartz: PRX 35mm & 40mm quartz, Seastar 1000 quartz, PR100, Everytime, Lovely, Bellissima. ETA Swiss quartz movements. Accurate ±10 sec/month. Automatic: Powermatic 80 across PRX, Seastar 1000, Le Locle, Gentleman. 80-hour reserve. Nivachron hairspring. Shop Tissot →
Citizen — Solar (Eco-Drive) & Automatic
Eco-Drive (solar): The majority of the Citizen range. Promaster Diver, aviation, and field models. Zero battery cost for life. 6-month dark reserve. Automatic: Tsuyosa collection (Miyota 8215, 42-hour reserve). Shop Citizen →
BOSS — Quartz & Automatic
Quartz: The majority of the BOSS range. Miyota Japanese quartz. Battery every 2–3 years. Automatic: BOSS automatic skeleton visible movement models. Miyota 8N24 calibre, 42-hour reserve. Shop BOSS →
Tommy Hilfiger — Quartz & Automatic
Quartz: The majority of the Tommy Hilfiger range. Miyota Japanese quartz standard across men's and ladies' lines. Automatic skeleton: Select models with transparent dial displaying the rotor. Entry automatic at £199–£279. Shop Tommy Hilfiger →
Olivia Burton — Quartz Only
Japanese quartz throughout. Miyota or Ronda calibres depending on model. Designed for elegance and dial artistry rather than movement complexity. Battery every 2–3 years. Shop Olivia Burton →
Vivienne Westwood — Quartz Only
Japanese quartz throughout. Ronda Swiss-made quartz on some models. Movement is secondary to design intent — case shape, Orb branding, and dial composition are the primary purchase drivers. Shop Vivienne Westwood →
Movement Decision Made Simple
Want the best of Swiss mechanical? Choose Tissot Powermatic 80. Want solar with professional-spec? Choose Citizen Promaster Eco-Drive. Want fashion with a mechanical story? Choose BOSS or Tommy Hilfiger automatic skeleton. Want maximum accuracy at minimum price? Choose any quartz model across any brand.
7 | How to Choose Your Movement
Four questions help identify the right movement for any buyer.
Question 1: How important is accuracy?
If you need the watch to be accurate to within seconds per month and find it annoying to reset a watch that has drifted: choose quartz or solar. If you are comfortable checking and adjusting the time occasionally and see minor drift as an acceptable characteristic of mechanical ownership: automatic is fine.
Question 2: How do you feel about batteries?
If you want zero ongoing battery cost and no disposal concern: choose solar / Eco-Drive. If you don't mind a straightforward battery change every 2–3 years at minimal cost: quartz is simple. If you want no battery ever and prefer mechanical energy: automatic.
Question 3: Will you wear it every day?
Worn daily: all three movement types work equally well. Worn occasionally and stored for days at a time: quartz or solar wins — quartz holds time on the battery; solar holds for 6 months. An automatic worn infrequently will stop and need resetting each time — unless you use a watch winder.
Question 4: Does the visible mechanism appeal to you?
Some buyers specifically want to see the rotor spinning, the skeletonised dial revealing gears, or feel that a mechanical watch is more interesting than an electronic one. If this matters to you: automatic. If you primarily care about the dial design and outward appearance: movement type is secondary — choose based on case, dial, and budget instead.
Choose Quartz If:
You want maximum accuracy. You value simplicity. You change time zones regularly. You prefer a thinner watch. The budget is below £300. You wear the watch occasionally rather than daily.
Choose Automatic If:
You want mechanical craftsmanship. The sweep second hand appeals to you. You will wear it daily. You want a watch to keep long-term. You want something serviceable and potentially heirloom-quality. Budget £200+.
Choose Solar If:
You want no battery cost ever. You prefer quartz accuracy without disposable batteries. You want Citizen Promaster professional specifications. You are an environmentally-conscious buyer. Budget £149–£500.
Come In and Try:
If you still aren't sure, visit us at 41 Barrow Street, St Helens. We will let you compare an Eco-Drive Citizen, a Tissot Powermatic 80, and a quartz model side by side. Seeing the movement differences in person often resolves the question immediately.
Top Picks at OD's — In Stock Now
Three best-sellers our customers are choosing this month — all in stock, ready to ship from St Helens, available to try in our St Helens store before you buy.
All available in-store at 41 Barrow Street, St Helens, WA10 1RY — try before you buy.
Browse the full jewellery range at OD's.
8 | Frequently Asked Questions
Is automatic or quartz better?
Neither is objectively better — they serve different buyer priorities. Quartz is more accurate and requires less maintenance. Automatic offers mechanical craftsmanship, a smooth sweeping second hand, and requires no battery. Both are excellent watches when made by quality manufacturers. The right answer depends on what you value: precision and simplicity (quartz) or craft and experience (automatic).
What happens if I don't wear my automatic watch for a week?
It will stop. A standard automatic runs for 38–42 hours when fully wound. Leave it unworn for longer than its power reserve and the mainspring fully unwinds and the watch stops. When you put it back on, you will need to set the time and restart it — either by wearing it for a few hours to wind via wrist motion, or by manually winding via the crown. A Tissot Powermatic 80 extends this to 80 hours, allowing a weekend off the wrist without stopping.
How long does Citizen Eco-Drive last without light?
A fully charged Citizen Eco-Drive capacitor provides approximately 6 months of reserve in complete darkness. In normal everyday use — indoors, outdoors, any ambient light environment — the watch maintains a full charge and the 6-month reserve is rarely relevant. You would need to store it in a sealed dark box for months before it became an issue.
Can you see the movement inside an automatic watch?
Many automatic watches feature an exhibition case back — a transparent sapphire glass rear that allows you to see the rotor spinning and the gear train operating. This is available on Tissot Powermatic 80 models, BOSS and Tommy Hilfiger automatic skeleton models, and the Citizen Tsuyosa. Some watches also have open or semi-skeletonised dials that allow a view of the movement from the front. If this feature appeals, ask in-store — it is available across several models at OD's.
Is the Tissot Powermatic 80 worth it over a standard automatic?
The Powermatic 80 offers a meaningful real-world advantage over a standard 42-hour automatic in one specific way: the 80-hour power reserve means you can take it off on Friday evening and it will still be running on Monday morning. For someone who wears a watch Monday to Friday and leaves it on the nightstand at weekends, this eliminates the common “reset the watch every Monday” frustration. The Nivachron silicon hairspring also improves real-world accuracy compared to standard hairsprings. At comparable price points to other Swiss automatics, it is a significant specification advantage.