What Is Rose Gold

What Rose Gold Is Made From

Rose gold is not a pure metal. It is a gold-copper alloy — a deliberate mixture of gold and copper, with small amounts of silver or zinc sometimes added to fine-tune the colour and hardness.

Pure gold (24 carat) is a rich, deep yellow. It is also very soft — too soft for most jewellery applications. By alloying gold with other metals, jewellers create materials that are harder, more durable, and less expensive, while retaining gold’s core properties. The alloy used, and its proportions, determines the final colour of the metal.

• Yellow gold: Gold + silver + copper (roughly equal proportions of silver and copper)
• White gold: Gold + palladium or nickel (sometimes with rhodium plating)
• Rose gold: Gold + copper (high copper proportion, little or no silver)

The copper content is what creates the pink-to-rose colour. More copper = a deeper, redder tone. Less copper = a lighter, more blush-pink tone. This is why rose gold can look quite different across brands and pieces — the alloy ratio is not standardised beyond the karat marking.

Karats and How They Affect the Colour

The karat (or carat in the UK) number tells you the proportion of pure gold in the alloy. 24 carat is pure gold. All other karat values are alloys.

9 carat rose gold has a high proportion of copper, which gives it a stronger pink and red tint. 18 carat rose gold has more pure gold and relatively less copper, resulting in a softer, warmer tone that sits closer to gold than to pink.

In the UK, 9ct is the most common karat used in everyday jewellery due to its lower price point and good durability. 18ct is more commonly found in fine jewellery and luxury brands. 14ct is more common in the US and some European markets.

Solid Rose Gold vs Rose Gold Plating

This is the most important distinction in the rose gold market, and it is frequently not made clear in product descriptions.

Solid Rose Gold

Solid rose gold means the entire piece — from surface to core — is made of the gold-copper alloy. The colour runs all the way through the metal. If the piece is scratched, the scratch reveals the same rose gold colour beneath. Solid rose gold does not wear away or reveal a different base metal beneath.

Rose Gold Plating

Rose gold plating means a thin layer of rose gold alloy has been deposited onto the surface of a different base metal — typically brass, copper, or sterling silver. The piece looks identical to solid rose gold on the surface, but the core is made of an entirely different metal.

The plating layer is thin. Fashion jewellery plating is typically 0.5 to 2 microns thick (a micron is one thousandth of a millimetre). With daily wear, this layer gradually wears through at points of friction — ring shanks, bracelet undersides, areas that rub against skin or clothing. As plating wears, the base metal beneath becomes visible, typically as a yellowing, darkening, or greenish discolouration.

How to Tell the Difference

• Price: Solid gold is significantly more expensive than plated due to gold content
• Hallmark: Solid UK gold carries an assay office hallmark (375, 585, 750). Plated pieces do not carry gold hallmarks
• Description: Look for “9ct rose gold” or “18ct rose gold” for solid. “Rose gold plated”, “rose gold tone”, or “IP rose gold” indicates plating
• IP (Ion Plating): A modern plating method using an electrical field to bond the layer more durably than standard electroplating. Still a plated surface, not solid gold, but typically more wear-resistant than standard plating

Rose Gold at OD’s Jewellers: Brand by Brand

Clogau — Solid Rose Gold (9ct)

Clogau uses solid 9 carat rose gold throughout their jewellery. Their distinctive “blush” rose gold is formulated to achieve a warm, romantic tone that is characteristic of the brand. Because it is solid gold, Clogau’s rose gold pieces darken and develop a natural patina over time — this is a feature, not a flaw. The metal deepens as it ages, creating a distinctive character. Clogau pieces carry a full UK hallmark. Browse our Clogau collection.

ChloBo — Rose Gold Plated (over sterling silver)

ChloBo’s rose gold pieces use a rose gold plating over sterling silver (925). This means the base is a quality material — sterling silver is a better base than brass — but the rose gold colour is a surface layer that will wear over time with daily use. ChloBo recommends keeping pieces away from water, perfume, and chemicals to extend plating life. Browse our ChloBo collection.

Swarovski — Rose Gold Tone (plated)

Swarovski uses a rose gold tone plating on base metal settings. The priority in Swarovski jewellery is the crystal itself — the metal setting is a frame for the light-refracting stonework. The rose gold tone is a fashion finish rather than a fine metal choice. Handle with care and keep away from water and cosmetics. Browse our Swarovski collection.

Tommy Hilfiger — IP Rose Gold (Ion Plated)

Tommy Hilfiger uses ion plating (IP) to apply a rose gold finish to stainless steel bases on watches and some jewellery. Ion plating creates a more wear-resistant bond than standard electroplating and the stainless steel base is corrosion-resistant. IP rose gold finishes on quality bases outperform standard plated fashion pieces in longevity. Browse our Tommy Hilfiger collection.

Does Rose Gold Tarnish?

Solid Rose Gold

Solid rose gold does not tarnish in the way sterling silver does. The gold content prevents the rapid oxidation that causes silver to blacken. However, solid rose gold does develop a patina — a gradual darkening and warming of the surface caused by the copper content oxidising slowly over time. This is considered desirable by many wearers and by Clogau specifically, who refer to it as a “living metal” quality.

If you want to restore the original brightness of solid rose gold, gentle polishing with a soft jeweller’s cloth will usually do the job. More significant patina can be addressed by a professional polishing service.

Plated Rose Gold

Rose gold plated pieces do not tarnish in the traditional sense, but the plating layer wears through with use, revealing the base metal. The visual result — a yellowing, darkening, or discolouration at points of wear — can resemble tarnish but is actually plating loss rather than oxidation of the surface metal.

Skin Reactions and Copper Content

Some people experience green skin discolouration or mild irritation when wearing rose gold. This is caused by the copper content in the alloy. When copper contacts skin, a chemical reaction with sweat and skin acids can produce copper salts, which are green in colour and transfer to the skin surface. This is not harmful and not a sign that the jewellery is low quality — it is a well-understood property of copper.

Who is most likely to experience this:

• People with more acidic skin chemistry
• People who sweat heavily during wear
• People wearing the piece during exercise
• People wearing lower-karat pieces (more copper proportion)

Higher karat = less copper = lower reaction risk. An 18ct rose gold piece has 75% gold and 25% other metals, with significantly less copper than a 9ct piece. If you are sensitive to copper, higher karat solid gold or pieces with a rhodium-plated finish will reduce contact with copper alloy components.

Care Guide for Rose Gold Jewellery

Solid Rose Gold (Clogau and other hallmarked pieces)

• Clean with warm water and a few drops of mild dish soap; use a very soft brush for intricate details
• Rinse thoroughly and dry with a soft cloth
• Polish with a jeweller’s cloth to restore brightness
• Avoid harsh chemicals, bleach, and chlorine
• Store separately from other jewellery to prevent scratching
• The patina that develops over time is normal — professional polishing can restore the original finish if desired

Rose Gold Plated Pieces (ChloBo, Swarovski)

• Wipe with a dry, soft cloth after each wear to remove skin oils and moisture
• Keep away from water, perfume, hairspray, sunscreen, and cosmetics
• Do not use jewellery cleaning solutions, silver cloths, or abrasive materials
• Store in the original pouch or a soft-lined box, separately from other pieces
• Rotate between pieces to reduce daily wear on any single item
• The plating will eventually wear through with daily use — this is normal, not a defect

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