Swarovski Aurora Borealis & Coating Guide
This is a supporting guide to our main Swarovski Brand Guide. It focuses specifically on the Aurora Borealis (AB) coating — the science behind the rainbow shimmer, its Dior origins, and how to identify genuine finishes.
The Aurora Borealis coating transforms Swarovski crystal into a kaleidoscope of shifting colour. Developed in 1956 with Christian Dior, it remains one of the most recognisable finishes in costume jewellery. The effect is achieved through thin-film physics — the same science that creates rainbows in oil slicks and soap bubbles.
1 | The Dior 1956 Story
In the early 1950s, Christian Dior wanted jewellery that could capture the ethereal, shifting colours of the Northern Lights. No existing finish could achieve this effect.
The Solution
Manfred Swarovski (grandson of founder Daniel Swarovski) worked with Dr. Hm. Schmied to adapt a blue metallic coating originally developed for high-precision optical lenses. The result was a new generation of crystals that could turn sunlight into iridescent colour.
The Debut
The first AB crystals appeared in a necklace designed by Francis Winter for Dior in 1956. This marked one of the first collaborations between a major fashion house and a materials manufacturer on product development.
The Legacy
The Dior partnership has continued through all seven of the house's artistic directors, including Yves Saint Laurent and John Galliano. The AB finish remains central to haute couture jewellery seven decades later.
2 | How the Coating Works
The rainbow effect is produced through physical vapor deposition (PVD) and thin-film interference.
The Deposition Process
Inside a high-vacuum chamber, a micro-thin layer of metal vapour is deposited onto the crystal's facets. This creates a "transflective" optical coating — part reflective, part transparent.
The Light Physics
Light reflects off both the upper surface and the crystal beneath. These two waves interact through constructive interference, amplifying certain wavelengths to create shifting rainbow colours.
This is the same phenomenon that creates colour in oil on water or soap bubbles — but precisely engineered for consistent brilliance.
3 | AB vs AB 2x
Swarovski offers two coating densities, each creating a different intensity of effect.
| Coating | Coverage | Visual Effect |
|---|---|---|
| AB (Half Coating) | ~50% of crystal surface | Subtle shimmer; base colour remains visible |
| AB 2x (Full Coating) | Entire 360° surface | Intense rainbow effect; maximum light capture |
Base Colour Interaction
- Light-coloured crystals: AB produces soft, ethereal pinks and blues
- Dark crystals (Jet, Emerald): AB takes on a brighter, metallic hue as the opaque substrate prevents light diffusion
4 | Spotting Genuine AB vs Imitations
The market contains many imitation AB crystals. Genuine Swarovski pieces can be identified through several precision markers.
Facet Uniformity
Swarovski crystals are machine-cut using complex algorithms. Every facet is identical in height, slope, and width. Imitations often show inconsistent faceting.
Point Convergence
All facet junctures in genuine Swarovski crystal meet at an exact point. In imitations, these junctures are often slightly offset.
Absence of Bubbles
Genuine Swarovski crystal is free of internal inclusions. Visible bubbles inside the stone indicate an imitation.
The Swan Logo
Since 1989, Swarovski has laser-etched a trapezoidal swan logo inside most jewellery pieces. Some colours may not carry the logo due to technical limitations.
Coating Quality
Genuine AB coatings are uniform and durable. Imitation coatings often show peeling or flaking, clouding or haziness, uneven colour distribution, and reduced optical clarity.
5 | Caring for AB-Coated Crystals
The thin-film coating requires specific care to maintain its brilliance.
Storage
Keep in original packaging to prevent scratching.
Cleaning
Use a soft, lint-free cloth or lukewarm water only.
Avoid
Harsh chemicals, ultrasonic cleaners, and abrasive polishes.
Wear Order
Put jewellery on after applying perfume and cosmetics.
The metallic coating can be damaged by chemical exposure. Proper care ensures the iridescent effect lasts for years.
6 | Other Swarovski Coatings
AB is the most famous, but Swarovski offers additional specialty finishes.
Coating Types
- Crystal AB: The classic rainbow finish on clear crystal
- Shimmer: A softer, more subtle version of the AB effect
- Metallic finishes: Chrome, Dorado, and other reflective coatings
- Matte finishes: Frosted effects for a contemporary aesthetic
Each coating uses variations of the same vacuum deposition technology, engineered for different visual effects.
7. Shop Swarovski at OD's
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