Jewellery Glossary Guide

What Is Sterling Silver (925)?

Sterling silver is a precious metal alloy containing 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% other metals, typically copper. The "925" hallmark denotes this precise composition, which has been the legal standard for silver in Britain since 1300. Pure silver (99.9% fine silver) is too soft for practical jewellery use, so the copper addition provides structural integrity without compromising the metal's characteristic lustre.

As of 2025, UK Assay Offices hallmark all silver items exceeding 7.78 grams, confirming authenticity and metal purity. The four UK Assay Offices, London (leopard's head), Birmingham (anchor), Sheffield (rose), and Edinburgh (castle), each apply their distinctive mark alongside the "925" fineness stamp. All ODS Jewellers brands using sterling silver comply with UK hallmarking legislation.

How Does Sterling Silver Work?

The copper in sterling silver creates a harder, more durable alloy while maintaining silver's reflective properties. However, copper reacts with hydrogen sulphide in air, causing tarnish, the dark patina forming on silver surfaces. Modern sterling silver jewellery typically receives protective treatments: rhodium plating prevents tarnish and adds scratch resistance, while anti-tarnish lacquers provide invisible protection.

Sterling silver conducts heat rapidly, creating the cool-to-touch sensation associated with quality silver jewellery. The metal accepts multiple finishing techniques including high polish, satin brush, oxidisation (intentional blackening), and texturing.

Where Is Sterling Silver Used?

Sterling silver forms the base metal for ChloBo, Kit Heath, Thomas Sabo, Diamonfire, and Nomination Italy jewellery. Vivienne Westwood uses sterling silver for selected fine jewellery pieces (approximately 11% of collection metals), with full UK hallmarking on qualifying items. Applications span rings, earrings, necklaces, bracelets, pendants, and charms. The metal's workability enables intricate designs from delicate chains to substantial statement pieces.

What Is Rhodium Plating?

Rhodium plating is an electroplating process applying a thin layer of rhodium, a rare platinum-group metal, to jewellery surfaces. Rhodium's exceptional hardness (Mohs scale 6.0), corrosion resistance, and brilliant white reflectivity make it the premium finish for silver and white gold jewellery. The plating thickness typically ranges from 0.75 to 2.5 microns for fashion jewellery applications.

Discovered in 1803 by William Hyde Wollaston, rhodium remains one of the rarest and most expensive precious metals, valued at approximately £14,000 per ounce as of 2025. South Africa produces 80% of global supply. Despite the cost, minimal quantities are required for plating, making the process commercially viable for mid-market jewellery.

How Does Rhodium Plating Work?

The electroplating process deposits rhodium atoms onto the base metal through electrical current in a rhodium sulphate solution. Prior to plating, items undergo thorough cleaning, electrocleaning, and sometimes nickel underplating to ensure adhesion. The resulting layer creates a barrier preventing oxidation of the underlying silver.

Rhodium's hypoallergenic properties make plated jewellery suitable for sensitive skin, blocking contact between skin and potentially reactive base metals. The finish maintains its bright appearance without polishing under normal wear conditions.

Where Is Rhodium Plating Used?

Kit Heath applies rhodium plating across all sterling silver collections for tarnish resistance. Diamonfire uses triple-plating (palladium, platinum, rhodium) for enhanced durability. Thomas Sabo, ChloBo, and Nomination Italy use rhodium selectively on silver pieces. The plating is not permanent, typical lifespan ranges from one to five years depending on wear frequency and contact with cosmetics.

What Is 18ct Gold Plating?

18ct gold plating applies a layer of 75% pure gold alloy (750 parts per thousand) to base metals through electrodeposition. The "18ct" designation confirms the gold fineness, the same standard used for solid 18ct gold jewellery. Plating thickness varies significantly: flash plating measures under 1 micron, standard plating ranges from 1-5 microns, and heavy gold plating exceeds 5 microns.

Gold plating democratises access to gold's warm aesthetic without solid gold pricing. A 2-micron 18ct gold plating on a sterling silver ring costs approximately 5-10% of an equivalent solid gold piece while delivering identical visual appearance.

How Does 18ct Gold Plating Work?

Items are submerged in an electrolyte solution containing gold ions. Electrical current causes gold to deposit atom-by-atom onto the cathode (the jewellery piece). Pre-treatment steps, cleaning, polishing, and sometimes nickel barrier plating, determine adhesion quality and longevity.

Rose gold plating uses copper-rich gold alloys (typically 75% gold, 22.25% copper, 2.75% silver) to achieve pink-red tones. Yellow gold plating uses silver-heavy alloys for warm golden hues. Both maintain 18ct (750) fineness despite colour variation.

Where Is 18ct Gold Plating Used?

ChloBo uses 18ct gold plating on selected collections alongside sterling silver. Kit Heath applies 18ct yellow and rose gold plating for two-tone designs. UNOde50 uses 18k gold plating on its signature alloy base. Thomas Sabo specifies "high-carat" gold plating across premium collections. Vivienne Westwood applies gold plating to brass base metals across the majority of its jewellery collection. Manufacturers recommend occasional wear for plated pieces to preserve finish longevity.

What Is Brass?

Brass is a copper-zinc alloy used as the base metal for fashion and designer jewellery. Standard jewellery brass contains approximately 60-70% copper and 30-40% zinc, creating a warm, yellowish metal with excellent casting and workability properties. The alloy's natural golden hue makes it particularly suitable as a base for gold plating, as the underlying colour complements thin gold layers.

Brass accounts for approximately 65% of base metals used in fashion jewellery globally. Its affordability (significantly cheaper than sterling silver), durability, and casting precision enable intricate designs at accessible price points. High-quality brass jewellery undergoes plating with rhodium, silver, gold, or platinum to prevent tarnishing and enhance aesthetic appeal.

How Does Brass Work in Jewellery?

Unplated brass reacts with moisture, oxygen, and skin acids to form copper carbonate, the greenish patina that can transfer to skin. Professional jewellery manufacturers apply protective platings (typically 0.5-2 microns) to create barriers preventing this oxidation. The plating also determines the finished colour: rhodium and silver platings create bright white tones, while gold plating delivers warm yellow or rose finishes.

Brass jewellery requires more careful handling than sterling silver or stainless steel. Exposure to water, cosmetics, perfumes, and sweat accelerates plating wear. Storage in dry pouches away from humidity extends piece longevity.

Where Is Brass Used?

Vivienne Westwood uses brass as the primary base metal across its jewellery collection, comprising 89% of metals used in SS25, with 99% of that brass being recycled. Brass bases receive rhodium, silver-tone, gold, rose gold, or platinum plating depending on design requirements. Olivia Burton and fashion jewellery ranges frequently use brass with gold or silver plating. The material enables Vivienne Westwood's signature Orb designs, crystal settings, and sculptural forms at fashion jewellery price points. For care guidance and collection details, see the Vivienne Westwood Brand Guide.

What Is Silver-Tone Plating?

Silver-tone plating applies a bright, silver-coloured metallic finish to base metals without using actual silver. The plating typically consists of rhodium, palladium, or nickel-free alloys electroplated at 0.5-1.0 micron thickness. The result mimics sterling silver's appearance while providing tarnish resistance superior to unplated silver.

The term "silver-tone" or "silver-plated" on fashion jewellery indicates colour rather than precious metal content. This distinction differentiates plated brass or alloy pieces from solid sterling silver items carrying "925" hallmarks.

Where Is Silver-Tone Plating Used?

Vivienne Westwood applies silver-tone rhodium plating to brass-based pieces including Mini Bas Relief pendants, Orb earrings, and signature necklaces. UNOde50 uses 15-20 micron sterling silver plating on its proprietary metal alloyâ€"significantly thicker than standard fashion jewellery plating. Olivia Burton features silver-tone pieces alongside gold-plated designs. The finish provides an affordable alternative to solid silver with consistent bright appearance.

Why It Matters in Jewellery

Silver-tone plating enables bright white metal aesthetics on brass, alloy, or stainless steel bases at lower cost than sterling silver. The protective layer prevents base metal tarnishing while delivering rhodium's hypoallergenic properties. Plating longevity depends on thickness, wear frequency, and exposure to chemicals, typically lasting one to three years with proper care.

What Is Welsh Gold?

Welsh gold is naturally occurring gold extracted from mines in Wales, primarily the Clogau St David's mine near Dolgellau in Snowdonia. Geologically distinct from other gold sources, Welsh gold formed over 400 million years ago in Ordovician volcanic rocks. The gold occurs in quartz veins with distinctive rose-pink undertones caused by trace copper contentâ€"a characteristic absent from other global deposits.

The Clogau St David's mine ceased commercial operations in 1998 after producing approximately 2.5 tonnes of gold since 1862. In 2025, Alba Mineral Resources extracted limited new quantities, but supply remains extremely constrained. Welsh gold currently trades at 8-10 times the spot price of standard gold, with newly mined coins achieving over £20,000 at auction according to Country Life (April 2025).

How Does Welsh Gold Work?

Clogau jewellery incorporates a trace amount of Welsh gold blended with sterling silver or 9ct/18ct gold. This symbolic inclusion connects each piece to Welsh heritage while maintaining accessible pricing. The Welsh Dragon hallmark and "CG" stamp authenticate genuine Welsh gold content.

Due to extreme scarcity, solid Welsh gold jewellery exists only in vintage pieces and special commissions. The blending approach allows Clogau to offer Welsh gold jewellery sustainably using carefully stewarded stockpiles from decades of mining.

Where Is Welsh Gold Used?

Clogau holds exclusive rights to Clogau St David's mine Welsh gold. Royal Family wedding rings have used Welsh gold since 1923, including Queen Elizabeth II, Princess Diana, Catherine Middleton, and Meghan Markle. Clogau's Tree of Life, Royal Heritage, and Signature Button collections feature Welsh gold traces. Each qualifying piece carries a Welsh Dragon mark certifying authenticity. For full brand heritage and collection details, see the Clogau Brand Guide.

What Is Stainless Steel (316L)?

316L stainless steel is a low-carbon austenitic steel containing chromium (16-18%), nickel (10-14%), and molybdenum (2-3%). The "L" designates low carbon content (below 0.03%), improving corrosion resistance and weldability. In jewellery, 316L is termed "surgical steel" or "marine grade" steel due to its biocompatibility and resistance to saltwater corrosion.

Where Is Stainless Steel Used?

Nomination Italy constructs Composable® bracelet bases from 316L stainless steel with precious metal decorative elements. Coeur de Lion uses stainless steel wire in GeoCUBE® designs and as structural elements. Watch cases from Tissot, Citizen, BOSS, and Tommy Hilfiger predominantly use 316L stainless steel.

Why It Matters in Jewellery

316L's durability, hypoallergenic properties, and corrosion resistance make it ideal for everyday jewellery. Unlike precious metals, stainless steel maintains appearance without tarnishing or requiring protective plating. The material accepts IP (ion plating) coatings for gold, rose gold, and black colour finishes without compromising base metal integrity.

What Is Swarovski Crystal?

Swarovski crystal is precision-cut lead glass manufactured by Swarovski AG in Wattens, Austria, since 1895. The proprietary crystal formula contains 32% lead oxide higher than standard crystal glass, producing superior light refraction with a refractive index of 1.545. Daniel Swarovski's invention of precision crystal-cutting machinery enabled mass production of stones rivalling hand-cut gemstones in brilliance.

In 2012, Swarovski introduced Advanced Crystal, reformulated to reduce lead content while maintaining optical properties for regulatory compliance in children's products. The company produces over 400,000 crystal variants in different sizes, shapes, colours, and coatings.

How Does Swarovski Crystal Work?

Precision cutting creates multiple facets (typically 12-14 for standard chatons) at exact angles calculated to maximise internal light reflection and dispersion. The Aurora Borealis (AB) coating developed in collaboration with Christian Dior in 1956, applies metallic oxide layers creating rainbow iridescence. Additional coatings include Crystal Volcano, Crystal Moonlight, and proprietary brand-exclusive finishes.

Foil backing on mounted crystals amplifies brightness by reflecting escaped light back through the stone. Open-back settings sacrifice some brilliance for authenticity perception, as viewers can see through to the setting.

Where Is Swarovski Crystal Used?

Swarovski jewellery uses proprietary crystals across all collections. Vivienne Westwood specifies Swarovski crystals in signature orb designs and pearl collections. Coeur de Lion incorporates Swarovski crystals in GeoCUBE® and gradient designs. Thomas Sabo uses Swarovski stones in Charm Club and statement pieces. The crystals appear in watches from multiple ODS Jewellers brands including Olivia Burton and Tommy Hilfiger. For full Swarovski heritage and technology details, see the Swarovski Brand Guide.

What Is Cubic Zirconia?

Cubic zirconia is synthesised zirconium dioxide (ZrO2) crystallised in cubic formâ€"a structure not occurring naturally. Developed commercially in the 1970s as a diamond simulant, CZ achieves 8.5 on the Mohs hardness scale (diamond: 10) with refractive index 2.15-2.18 (diamond: 2.42). The stones are optically flawless, lacking natural diamond's characteristic inclusions.

Quality CZ is produced through skull crucible melting at 2,750°C, allowing zirconium dioxide powder to crystallise around a cooling core. The process creates stones from 1mm to 50+ carats. Colour variants incorporate metal oxide dopants: cerium for yellow, neodymium for pink, chromium for green.

How Does Cubic Zirconia Work?

CZ's high refractive index produces diamond-like brilliance, while its dispersion (colour fire) of 0.058-0.066 actually exceeds diamond's 0.044. This creates more rainbow flashes than natural diamonds, paradoxically revealing CZ to trained observers expecting subtler fire. High-quality cutting following diamond proportions (Ideal Cut parameters) maximises light performance.

CZ weighs approximately 1.7 times more than diamond, 6.5mm CZ weighs roughly 1.5 carats versus 1 carat for equivalent diamond. This density difference enables weight-based identification without gemological equipment.

Where Is Cubic Zirconia Used?

Diamonfire specialises in CZ jewellery, cutting stones to "Ideal Cut" diamond parameters. Kit Heath uses CZ accents in sterling silver designs. Thomas Sabo incorporates CZ across Charm Club and Glam & Soul collections. Swarovski's Zirconia line offers branded CZ cut to proprietary standards. Applications span engagement ring alternatives, tennis bracelets, stud earrings, and pendant designs.

What Is Diamonfire?

Diamonfire is a jewellery brand specialising in cubic zirconia stones cut to "Ideal Cut" diamond proportions with 57 facets, the same specification as round brilliant diamonds. The brand guarantees each stone meets optimal light performance parameters: 53-57.5% table percentage, 59-62.3% depth, 34.3-34.8° crown angle, and 40.6-41.8° pavilion angle. These specifications maximise brilliance, fire, and scintillation.

Founded in 1979, Diamonfire provides ethical diamond alternatives without compromise on visual performance. The brand's triple-plating technique applies three precious metal layers to 925 sterling silver bases: palladium, platinum, and rhodium. This construction outlasts standard rhodium plating while maintaining hypoallergenic properties.

How Does Diamonfire Work?

The triple-plating process deposits three distinct precious metal layers onto 925 sterling silver bases. Palladium provides an adhesion layer, platinum adds hardness, and rhodium delivers the final brilliant white finish. Combined plating thickness ranges from 15-20 microns, substantially thicker than single-layer rhodium plating on standard silver jewellery.

Diamonfire guarantees all products against manufacturing and material defects for one year from purchase. Each piece arrives in branded packaging with a certificate of authenticity confirming genuine Diamonfire origin.

Where Is Diamonfire Used?

ODS Jewellers stocks Diamonfire across rings, earrings, pendants, necklaces, and bracelets. Popular applications include solitaire engagement ring alternatives, tennis bracelets, halo pendants, and eternity bands. The brand particularly serves customers seeking ethical alternatives to mined diamonds without compromising on visual impact or quality. For full brand heritage and collection details, see the Diamonfire Brand Guide.

What Are Freshwater Pearls?

Freshwater pearls form inside mussels in rivers, lakes, and ponds, primarily in China, which produces 95% of global supply. Unlike saltwater pearls (Akoya, South Sea, Tahitian), freshwater pearls grow entirely from nacre without bead nucleation, creating solid pearl composition. Modern cultivation techniques yield near-round shapes previously exclusive to saltwater varieties, with sizes ranging from 2mm rice pearls to 15mm+ baroque specimens.

Where Are Freshwater Pearls Used?

ChloBo incorporates freshwater pearls into stacking bracelets and layering necklaces. Kit Heath uses cultured freshwater pearls with natural size and colour variation, acknowledged in product specifications as characteristic of organic origin. Coeur de Lion combines freshwater pearls with stainless steel in GeoCUBE designs. Vivienne Westwood features pearls in signature orb pieces including the Olympia Pearl collection.

Why They Matter in Jewellery

Freshwater pearls deliver organic lustre at accessible pricing, typically 50-80% less than equivalent saltwater pearls. Natural variation in shape, size, and overtone creates unique character in each piece. Ethical cultivation practices and renewable production make freshwater pearls a sustainable choice compared to historically problematic pearl diving operations.

What Are Semi-Precious Gemstones?

Semi-precious gemstones encompass all natural gemstones excluding the "precious" quartet: diamond, ruby, sapphire, and emerald. The classification dates to 1858 European trade categorisation and bears no relation to rarity, beauty, or value, some "semi-precious" stones exceed precious stone prices. Common examples include amethyst, topaz, garnet, peridot, citrine, tourmaline, aquamarine, and opal.

Where Are Semi-Precious Gemstones Used?

Coeur de Lion features natural gemstones including rose quartz, smoky quartz, agate, aventurine, sodalite, and onyx in GeoCUBE® collections. Each stone receives attribution for symbolic properties, rose quartz represents love, rock crystal signifies clarity. ChloBo uses labradorite, onyx, and other semi-precious stones as accent elements. Kit Heath incorporates white topaz as diamond alternatives in selected pieces.

Why They Matter in Jewellery

Semi-precious stones provide colour variety, natural character, and individual uniqueness impossible to replicate synthetically. Natural variations in colour saturation, inclusions, and veining are characteristic features rather than defects. Gemstone origin and treatment disclosure has become increasingly important to conscious consumers seeking transparent sourcing.

What Is Eco-Drive?

Eco-Drive is Citizen Watch Company's proprietary light-powered movement technology, converting any light source, natural or artificial, into electrical energy stored in a rechargeable lithium-ion battery. Introduced commercially in 1995, Eco-Drive eliminates disposable battery replacement throughout the watch's lifetime. Citizen estimates the technology has prevented disposal of over 10 million batteries in North America alone.

The original Eco-Drive caliber 7878 movement pioneered invisible solar cell placement beneath translucent dials. Previous light-powered watches required visible solar panels compromising aesthetics. Current Eco-Drive movements power functions including chronographs, perpetual calendars, world time, GPS satellite synchronisation, and professional dive capabilities to 200m+ depth ratings.

How Does Eco-Drive Work?

Photovoltaic cells beneath the dial convert light photons into electrical current stored in a secondary (rechargeable) battery. Citizen developed two solar cell configurations: standard solar positions cells directly under transparent dials, while Ring Solar places cells around the dial circumference, enabling opaque dial materials.

Power reserve varies by model: basic three-hand models run 6-12 months in darkness from full charge, while Eco-Drive 365 (caliber E365) achieves 365-day reserves. Power-save mode extends reserves by stopping hands when stored in darkness; exposure to light automatically restores correct time. Caliber 0100 achieves ±1 second per year accuracy through 8.4MHz quartz oscillation, 256 times higher than standard 32kHz movements.

Where Is Eco-Drive Used?

ODS Jewellers stocks Citizen Eco-Drive across dress, sport, and professional collections including Promaster dive watches. The technology appears in models from entry-level (£150) to premium Satellite Wave GPS (£1,500+). Citizen received Eco Mark certification, the first watch brand achieving this Japanese environmental standard recognising reduced environmental impact. For full Citizen heritage and technology details, see the Citizen Watches Brand Guide.

What Is Powermatic 80?

Powermatic 80 is Tissot's automatic mechanical movement offering 80-hour power reserve, nearly double the 38-42 hour industry standard. Based on the ETA 2824 caliber modified as ETA C07.111, the movement represents Swatch Group's strategy to deliver premium mechanical performance at accessible price points. The movement powers Tissot's bestselling PRX collection alongside Gentleman, Le Locle, and other lines.

The "80" designation references the extended power reserve enabling watches to run for three full days without wearing, a significant practical advantage over standard automatics requiring daily wear or manual winding.

How Does Powermatic 80 Work?

The movement achieves extended power reserve through optimised mainspring construction and reduced friction components. The Nivachron balance spring, made from titanium-based alloy developed by Swatch Groupâ€"provides exceptional resistance to magnetic fields up to 2000 A/m, temperature variations, and shock. Traditional steel hairsprings are vulnerable to magnetisation affecting accuracy.

Operating at 21,600 vibrations per hour (3Hz) with 23 jewels, the movement offers hacking seconds (stopping seconds hand when crown is pulled) and manual winding capability. Display casebacks on most models allow movement viewing.

Where Is Powermatic 80 Used?

Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 models form the bestselling segment of ODS Jewellers' Tissot stock. Available in 35mm, 38mm, and 40mm case sizes across steel, gold-plated, and two-tone variants. The movement also appears in dressy Gentleman and heritage-inspired Le Locle collections. Service intervals of 4-5 years maintain accuracy and longevity. For complete Tissot heritage and collection details, see the Tissot Watches Brand Guide.

What Is Swiss Quartz Movement?

Swiss quartz movements are battery-powered watch calibers manufactured in Switzerland to Swiss Made standards, requiring 60% Swiss value content and final inspection in Switzerland. Quartz technology uses piezoelectric oscillation of quartz crystal at 32,768Hz to regulate timekeeping, achieving ±10-20 seconds monthly accuracy versus ±5-10 seconds daily for mechanical movements.

Where Is Swiss Quartz Used?

Tissot offers Swiss quartz alongside Powermatic 80 in the PRX collection at lower price points. Citizen quartz models complement Eco-Drive offerings. BOSS, Tommy Hilfiger, and Olivia Burton watches predominantly use quartz movements balancing accuracy, reliability, and pricing. Swarovski watches feature Swiss quartz calibers in crystal-adorned cases.

Why It Matters in Watches

Swiss quartz delivers superior accuracy to mechanical alternatives at lower cost with minimal maintenance, battery replacement every 2-3 years versus mechanical servicing every 3-5 years. The "Swiss Made" designation carries quality connotations developed over centuries of horological heritage, distinguishing these movements from Asian quartz alternatives.

What Is Sapphire Crystal Glass?

Sapphire crystal is synthetic corundum (aluminium oxide, Al2O3) grown through the Verneuil flame-fusion or Czochralski processes. Rating 9 on the Mohs hardness scale, second only to diamond sapphire crystal provides exceptional scratch resistance for watch crystals. The material is transparent and colourless despite its name (natural blue sapphire contains titanium impurities).

Where Is Sapphire Crystal Used?

Tissot PRX and premium Citizen watches feature sapphire crystals, often with anti-reflective coating for improved legibility. Clogau watches include sapphire crystal glass across the collection. Entry-level watches typically use mineral glass (hardened glass, Mohs 5-6) or hesalite (acrylic, Mohs 3).

Why It Matters in Watches

Sapphire crystal maintains clarity throughout ownership, minor scratches from daily wear that would cloud mineral glass leave sapphire unaffected. The material's brittleness makes it vulnerable to direct impacts, but normal wear rarely generates sufficient force to crack properly seated sapphire crystals. Anti-reflective coatings can scratch; coated crystals require careful cleaning.

What Is the Composable® System?

Composable® is Nomination Italy's modular charm bracelet system introduced in 1987, enabling personalised jewellery construction through interchangeable link components. The patented spring mechanism connects individual stainless steel links into customisable bracelets, with decorative links featuring 18k gold, 9k gold, 925 sterling silver, enamel, cubic zirconia, gemstones, diamonds, and pearls. The catalogue exceeds 2,500 link designs.

The system name derives from "composable" the ability to compose personal narratives through symbolic link selection. Founder Paolo Gensini's original innovation combined industrial stainless steel with precious metal detailing, creating an entirely new jewellery category that spawned global imitation.

How Does Composable® Work?

Base bracelets consist of plain stainless steel links in 13-link (small), 17-link (standard), or 18-link (classic) configurations. Each link features small hooks on both ends connecting to adjacent links through a spring mechanism. Users remove individual links using a Composable® tool (or gentle hand pressure), substitute decorative links, and reconnect.

Link compatibility spans the entire Nomination range, any Composable Classic link fits any Classic base bracelet regardless of purchase date. Nomination guarantees this backward compatibility, enabling collections accumulated over decades.

Where Is Composable® Used?

ODS Jewellers stocks the full Nomination Composable® range including base bracelets, decorative links, double links, and extension links. Popular link themes include initials, birthstones, zodiac signs, hearts, family symbols, travel icons, and milestone markers. The 2023-2024 resurgence, driven by Love Island visibility and TikTok content, introduced new collectors to the system, with multi-bracelet stacks representing different life chapters. For full Nomination heritage and collection details, see the Nomination Brand Guide.

What Is GeoCUBE®?

GeoCUBE® is Coeur de Lion's signature design collection featuring cubic gemstone elements strung on steel wire, introduced in 1999. Inspired by Bauhaus geometric principles, the collection combines cube-shaped natural stones, crystals, and pearls with 316L stainless steel components. The design won the German Brand Award in the Luxury category, establishing Coeur de Lion as a leader in contemporary German jewellery design.

Each GeoCUBE® piece is handcrafted in Coeur de Lion's Stuttgart workshop, maintaining short supply chains and direct quality control. The brand prioritises sustainable production methods and environmentally friendly finishing processes throughout manufacturing.

How Does GeoCUBE® Work?

Natural gemstones including agate, aventurine, smoky quartz, rose quartz, tiger's eye, carnelian, and sodalite are cut into 4mm or 8mm cubes and combined with Swarovski crystals, freshwater pearls, and Polaris (synthetic resin) elements. Stainless steel wire threads components into necklaces, bracelets, and earring designs.

Colour coordination follows two approaches: tone-in-tone combines shades within a single colour family, while multicolour designs incorporate contrasting hues. Stainless steel bases accept gold or rose gold plating for warm-toned variants.

Where Is GeoCUBE® Used?

ODS Jewellers stocks GeoCUBE® across necklaces, bracelets, and earrings. The collection offers matching sets, each necklace design has coordinating bracelet and earrings. Applications range from everyday wear to statement occasions. Natural stone variations ensure no two pieces are identical, providing individual character within consistent design frameworks. For full Coeur de Lion heritage and collection details, see the Coeur de Lion Brand Guide.

What Is ChloBo Symbolism?

ChloBo integrates spiritual symbolism from Balinese culture into British-designed sterling silver jewellery. Founder Chloe Moss developed the design philosophy during travels through Indonesia, where local artisans demonstrated connections between jewellery motifs and personal meaning. Each ChloBo symbol carries attributed significance: hearts represent love, feathers signify guidance, lotus flowers symbolise growth and new beginnings, evil eyes offer protection.

Where Is ChloBo Symbolism Used?

Symbolic motifs appear throughout ChloBo stacking bracelets, pendants, earrings, and rings. The Power Within collection incorporates gemstones attributed with wellness properties. The brand's "Wear Your Story" philosophy encourages layering multiple pieces to create personal narratives. Birthstone bracelets link zodiac symbolism to monthly gemstone associations.

Why It Matters in Jewellery

Symbolic meaning transforms jewellery from accessory to personal talisman. ChloBo's approach creates emotional connection beyond aesthetic appeal, customers select pieces representing aspirations, marking milestones, or expressing values. The collecting and layering culture builds ongoing brand relationships as customers accumulate meaningful pieces over time. For full ChloBo heritage and symbolism details, see the ChloBo Brand Guide.

What Is Thomas Sabo Charm Club?

Charm Club is Thomas Sabo's modular charm collection launched in 2006, featuring clip-on charms attachable to bracelets, necklaces, and watch straps. Unlike Nomination's flat-link system, Thomas Sabo charms are three-dimensional pendants connecting via lobster clasps or spring rings to carrier jewellery. Materials include 925 sterling silver, gold plating, and blackened silver (oxidised finish).

Where Is Charm Club Used?

ODS Jewellers stocks Thomas Sabo Charm Club across standalone charms, carrier bracelets, and necklace chains. Charm themes encompass letters, numbers, zodiac signs, lucky symbols, pop culture references, and seasonal releases. The Generation Charm Club sub-line targets younger demographics with contemporary motifs and accessible pricing.

Why It Matters in Jewellery

Charm Club's three-dimensional design creates visual impact exceeding flat charm alternatives. The clip mechanism enables easy charm swapping without tools, encouraging seasonal rotation and ongoing collection building. Thomas Sabo's brand positioning, between accessible fashion jewellery and premium silver houses, attracts customers seeking quality sterling silver with design creativity. For full brand heritage and collection details, see the Thomas Sabo Brand Guide.

What Is the Vivienne Westwood Orb?

The Orb is Vivienne Westwood's signature emblem combining the British Royal Orb (sovereign's orb representing Christian authority) with Saturn's rings, symbolising planetary technology and punk subversion. Introduced in 1987, the Orb represents Westwood's design philosophy of recontextualising traditional British symbols through rebellious lens.

Where Is the Orb Used?

The Orb appears across all Vivienne Westwood jewellery categories: necklaces, earrings, bracelets, rings, and brooches. The Bas Relief collection features embossed Orbs, while Mini Orb designs offer subtle branding. Pearl necklaces prominently feature Orb clasps or pendants. Most pieces use brass base metal with rhodium, silver-tone, gold, rose gold, or platinum plating, with 89% of SS25 collection metals being recycled brass. Selected fine jewellery pieces use 925 sterling silver with full UK hallmarking. Swarovski crystals and cubic zirconia provide signature sparkle. The Orb also appears on Vivienne Westwood watches.

Why It Matters in Jewellery

The Orb provides instant brand recognition, one of fashion jewellery's most identifiable symbols. Its combination of royal imagery and punk attitude attracts customers seeking statement pieces with cultural depth beyond pure aesthetics. The symbol's 35+ year heritage creates collecting appeal across multiple generations of Westwood enthusiasts. For full brand heritage and collection details, see the Vivienne Westwood Brand Guide and Vivienne Westwood Watches Guide.

What Is Tommy Hilfiger Watch Licensing?

Tommy Hilfiger watches are manufactured through licensing partnership with Movado Group, a Swiss-American watch company producing fashion brand timepieces since 1983. This arrangement applies fashion brand design direction to watches manufactured with Movado's horological expertise. The partnership began in 2001, establishing Tommy Hilfiger as a mainstream fashion watch category leader.

Where Are Tommy Hilfiger Watches Used?

ODS Jewellers stocks Tommy Hilfiger watches across men's and women's collections featuring stainless steel cases, quartz movements, and mineral crystal protection. Signature design elements include bold blue accents, flag-inspired colour blocking, and nautical-themed details reflecting the brand's American preppy heritage.

Why It Matters in Watches

Movado Group's manufacturing (Swiss-heritage watchmaker) delivers quality exceeding typical fashion brand licensing arrangements. The £80-£160 sweet spot appeals to first-time designer watch buyers and gift-givers seeking recognised branding. Japanese quartz movements ensure accuracy with minimal maintenance beyond eventual battery replacement. For full brand heritage and collection details, see the Tommy Hilfiger Watches Brand Guide.

What Is Olivia Burton?

Olivia Burton is a London-founded (2012) fashion watch and jewellery brand known for feminine, nature-inspired designs featuring florals, bees, butterflies, and vintage-style dials. Watches feature quartz movements in stainless steel cases protected by mineral crystal, with ionic plating delivering gold, rose gold, and silver finishes. Case sizes range from 28mm to 38mm, targeting smaller wrist proportions with detailed dial designs impossible at larger scales.

Where Is Olivia Burton Used?

ODS Jewellers stocks Olivia Burton watches across collections including Classics, Townhouse, and Grosvenor series. Water resistance achieves 3 ATM (30m) standard with select models rated to 10 metres. Jewellery includes sterling silver earrings, plated stainless steel bracelets and necklaces, featuring the signature North Star marker and nature-themed motifs. The 2-year international warranty covers manufacturing defects.

Why It Matters in Jewellery

Olivia Burton fills the accessible feminine fashion watch category between entry-level brands and established Swiss manufacturers. The distinctive British aestheticâ€"inspired by London antique fairs and vintage styling, creates recognisable designs across coordinated watch and jewellery collections enabling complete accessory matching. For full brand heritage and collection details, see the Olivia Burton Brand Guide.

What Is Laura Ashley Jewellery?

Laura Ashley jewellery extends the British lifestyle brand's signature floral and romantic aesthetics into accessories. The collection features gold-plated or silver-plated brass bases with delicate feminine designs inspired by the brand's textile heritage. Watches use quartz movements in stainless steel cases (with select designs in sterling silver or gold-plating), mineral crystal protection, and dials featuring mother-of-pearl, enamel, and crystal embellishment.

Where Is Laura Ashley Used?

Laura Ashley jewellery includes necklaces, earrings, rings, bracelets, and brooches featuring floral patterns, botanical motifs, and vintage-inspired styling. Watch straps span leather, fabric, ceramic, and stainless steel options. The brand emphasises sustainability through ethically sourced materials and environmentally conscious manufacturing practices.

Why It Matters in Jewellery

Laura Ashley's established brand recognition (founded 1953) delivers trusted British heritage aesthetics in the affordable jewellery category. Hand-applied floral patterns and jewelled accents distinguish pieces from mass-produced alternatives. The coordinated design language enables matching accessories across jewellery, watches, and the broader Laura Ashley homeware and fashion collections. For full brand heritage and collection details, see the Laura Ashley Brand Guide.

What Are BOSS Watches?

BOSS watches are produced through licensing partnership with Movado Group, combining Hugo Boss fashion brand design direction with Swiss-heritage watchmaking expertise. The collection emphasises contemporary business-casual aesthetics: clean dials, refined proportions, and versatile colourways suitable for professional and lifestyle contexts. Japanese quartz movements power most models, delivering accuracy with minimal maintenance requirements.

Where Are BOSS Watches Used?

ODS Jewellers stocks BOSS watches across men's and women's collections featuring 316L stainless steel cases, mineral crystal protection, and water resistance typically rated 3-5 ATM. Design elements include mesh bracelets, two-tone finishes, chronograph complications, and signature branding. Price positioning (£150-£400) targets fashion-conscious professionals seeking designer recognition without luxury pricing.

Why They Matter in Watches

BOSS's brand positioning between mass-market fashion watches and established Swiss houses appeals to customers prioritising contemporary design and brand prestige over horological complexity. Movado Group's manufacturing standards ensure quality construction exceeding typical fashion licensing arrangements. For full brand heritage and collection details, see the BOSS Watches Brand Guide.

What Is AnchorCert Protect?

AnchorCert Protect is a UKAS-accredited testing certification verifying jewellery is free from metallic elements causing Allergic Contact Dermatitis (ACD). The certification tests against 17 known metal allergens including nickel, cobalt, and chromium. Birmingham Assay Office developed the standard in response to EU REACH regulations requiring nickel release limits in prolonged skin contact products.

Certification involves extractive testing simulating prolonged skin contact conditionsâ€"if metal release exceeds threshold limits (0.5μg/cm²/week for nickel), products fail certification. The testing protocol exceeds basic nickel compliance, offering comprehensive allergen screening unavailable through standard hallmarking.

How Does AnchorCert Protect Work?

Manufacturers submit products for laboratory testing against the 17-allergen panel. Passing products receive AnchorCert Protect certification permitting use of the certification mark in marketing and packaging. Certification applies to specific product lines, manufacturers must test each distinct design to maintain compliance claims.

The UKAS accreditation (United Kingdom Accreditation Service) confirms testing laboratory competency to ISO 17025 standards, providing third-party validation of certification integrity.

Where Is AnchorCert Protect Used?

Kit Heath achieved AnchorCert Protect certification across all jewellery collectionsâ€"the brand prominently features this accreditation in marketing materials. ChloBo confirms AnchorCert Protect certification for qualifying pieces. The certification particularly matters for sterling silver jewellery where base metal alloys (copper in 925 silver) could theoretically trigger sensitivities despite precious metal content.

What Is UK Hallmarking?

UK hallmarking is the legal certification of precious metal fineness, mandatory for gold, silver, platinum, and palladium items exceeding weight thresholds (7.78g silver, 1g gold, 0.5g platinum/palladium). Four UK Assay Officesâ€"London, Birmingham, Sheffield, Edinburgh, apply registered marks confirming metal purity, date, and office of assay. The system traces to 1300 AD, making British hallmarking among the world's oldest consumer protection schemes.

Where Is UK Hallmarking Used?

All qualifying Clogau, Kit Heath, ChloBo, and Thomas Sabo pieces sold through UK retailers carry Assay Office hallmarks. Sterling silver items display "925" fineness, 9ct gold shows "375", and 18ct gold displays "750". The marks provide legal proof of metal content independent of brand claims.

Why It Matters in Jewellery

Hallmarking protects consumers from misrepresentation, selling unhallmarked items as precious metal is a criminal offence. The system enables confident purchasing of unfamiliar brands and secondhand pieces. International buyers recognise UK hallmarks, supporting resale value and export credibility.

What Is the Responsible Jewellery Council?

The Responsible Jewellery Council is a standards-setting organisation establishing ethical, social, and environmental practices for diamond, gold, and platinum jewellery supply chains. Founded in 2005, the RJC developed the Code of Practices certification covering human rights, labour conditions, environmental impact, and product disclosure. The complementary Chain of Custody certification traces precious metals and diamonds from mine to retail.

Where Is RJC Certification Used?

Clogau adheres to RJC guidelines for ethical material sourcing alongside Kimberley Process compliance for diamond supply chains. Major watch brands including those within Swatch Group (Tissot's parent company) maintain RJC certification across manufacturing operations.

Why It Matters in Jewellery

RJC certification provides third-party verification of ethical claimsâ€"countering "greenwashing" concerns in an industry historically associated with exploitation. Consumer demand for transparency drives retailer preference for RJC-certified suppliers, making certification increasingly essential for market access.

Construction & Settings

What Is Prong Setting?

Prong setting (also called claw setting) secures gemstones using metal projections bent over the stone's crown, holding it by the girdle. Four-prong settings maximise light entry; six-prong configurations provide enhanced security for valuable stones. The setting style originated in the 1886 Tiffany Setting, revolutionising diamond presentation by elevating stones above the band.

Where Is Prong Setting Used?

Diamonfire solitaire rings predominantly use four-prong settings showcasing cubic zirconia centres. Kit Heath features prong-set cubic zirconia accents. Thomas Sabo uses prong settings for larger stones in Charm Club and Glam & Soul collections. The setting appears across engagement ring alternatives and statement pieces where stone visibility is paramount.

Why It Matters in Jewellery

Prong settings maximise brilliance by minimising metal obstruction of light paths. Higher stone elevation increases vulnerability to snagging and impact damage, customers requiring durability for active lifestyles may prefer bezel settings despite reduced light performance.

What Is Pave© Setting?

Pave© (French for "paved") setting involves multiple small stones set closely together, held by minimal metal beads or micro-prongs between stones. The technique creates continuous sparkle surfaces resembling diamond-paved roads. Stone sizes typically range from 0.8mm to 1.5mm diameter; smaller stones indicate more labour-intensive and costly execution.

Where Is Pave© Setting Used?

Kit Heath's Bevel Cirque Pave© collection features pave©-set cubic zirconia along curved sterling silver forms. Thomas Sabo uses pavé settings across multiple collections including statement rings and pendant designs. Diamonfire tennis bracelets employ pave©-adjacent continuous stone settings. The technique appears wherever maximum sparkle density is desired.

Why It Matters in Jewellery

Pave© maximises visual impact from small, affordable stones, the cumulative effect of dozens of 1mm CZ stones rivals or exceeds single larger stones. The setting requires skilled craftsmanship; poorly executed pave© shows uneven stone heights, visible gaps, or loose stones. Quality pave© maintains uniform sparkle when viewed from any angle.

What Is Bezel Setting?

Bezel setting encircles gemstones with a continuous metal rim pressed against the stone's girdle. The protective metal collar secures stones more durably than prong settings while creating clean, modern aesthetics. Full bezels completely surround stones; partial bezels (semi-bezels) leave portions of the girdle exposed.

Where Is Bezel Setting Used?

Coeur de Lion uses bezel-style settings for cube stones within GeoCUBE designs. Kit Heath features bezel-set stones in select collections. Watch applications include bezel-set indices and dial markers. The setting suits active-wear jewellery and pieces exposed to frequent contact.

Why It Matters in Jewellery

Bezel settings sacrifice some brilliance (metal obscures stone edges) for enhanced protection against impacts and snagging. The smooth profile particularly suits engagement rings for medical professionals, athletes, and others requiring snag-free jewellery. Contemporary design aesthetics increasingly favour bezel's streamlined appearance over traditional prong settings.

What Is Enamel?

Enamel is powdered glass fused to metal surfaces through firing at 750-850°C, creating permanent colour decoration. The technique dates to 13th century BC, with Byzantine, Faberge©, and Art Nouveau periods representing peak artistic achievement. Modern jewellery enamel uses lead-free formulations in unlimited colour ranges including translucent, opaque, and opalescent variants.

Where Is Enamel Used?

Nomination Italy offers extensive enamel-decorated Composable links featuring flags, symbols, and coloured designs. Thomas Sabo uses enamel in Charm Club pieces depicting characters and motifs. Vivienne Westwood incorporates enamel in signature orb designs. ChloBo features enamel accents in selected collections. Application techniques include cloisonn© (wired cells), chample© (recessed channels), and contemporary resin-backed variants.

Why It Matters in Jewellery

Fired enamel provides permanent colour impervious to fading, unlike paint or lacquer finishes. Quality enamel exhibits smooth, glass-like surfaces without bubbles, cracks, or lifting edges. Temperature sensitivity during firing limits production to skilled workshops; mass-produced "enamel-look" pieces often use cold enamel (resin) with reduced durability.

What Is Ion Plating?

Ion plating (IP) is a physical vapour deposition (PVD) process applying thin metallic coatings to watch cases and bracelets. Coating materials (titanium nitride for gold tones, titanium carbide for black) are vaporised in vacuum chambers and deposited onto substrates through plasma bombardment. The resulting films measure 0.1-5 microns thick with exceptional adhesion and hardness.

Where Is Ion Plating Used?

BOSS and Tommy Hilfiger watches feature gold-tone and black IP coatings on stainless steel cases. Clogau watches use rose gold ion plating on stainless steel with sapphire crystal. IP coating provides colour options beyond standard polished steel finishes without precious metal costs.

Why It Matters in Watches

IP coatings resist scratching and wear significantly better than traditional electroplating. The molecular bonding prevents peeling or lifting common in cheaper plating methods. However, deep scratches penetrating the coating expose base metal, unlike solid gold that can be polished through surface damage.

What Is Water Resistance (ATM)?

ATM (atmospheres) measures watch water resistance pressure tolerance. One ATM equals 10 metres static water pressure (1 bar). Ratings indicate laboratory test conditions rather than actual swimming depths, dynamic pressures from arm movement, diving, or water impact exceed static equivalents. Industry standards define 3 ATM for splash resistance, 5 ATM for swimming, 10 ATM for water sports, and 20 ATM+ for diving.

Where Are ATM Ratings Used?

Tissot PRX achieves 10 ATM (100m) water resistance suitable for swimming and water sports. Citizen Promaster divers reach 20 ATM (200m) or higher for serious diving use. Fashion watches from BOSS, Tommy Hilfiger, and Olivia Burton typically achieve 3-5 ATM ratings adequate for daily wear.

Why They Matter in Watches

ATM ratings guide appropriate use conditions, wearing 3 ATM watches swimming causes moisture ingress and movement damage. Gasket degradation over time reduces water resistance; manufacturers recommend pressure testing every 12-24 months for regularly submerged watches.