Vivienne Westwood Jewellery Orb Collection Families Guide
This is a supporting guide to our main Vivienne Westwood Jewellery Brand Guide. It focuses specifically on the individual Orb collection families — what distinguishes each structurally, how they differ in weight and proportion, and which design details separate them at a technical level.
The Vivienne Westwood Orb is not a single design — it is a system of related but structurally distinct families, each built from the same motif but differing in relief profile, surface treatment, scale, and construction method.
1 | Bas Relief Family
The Bas Relief family is defined by its "low relief" sculptural profile — the Orb motif is raised on the front face and flattened on the reverse to sit stable against skin or fabric.
| Variant | Typical Orb Height | Width | Weight | Profile |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mini Bas Relief | 1.7–2.0cm | 2.6–2.7cm | 8.5–8.55g | 2D / flat back |
| Mayfair Bas Relief | 2.0–2.2cm | 2.5–2.6cm | 11.5g | 2D / studded |
| New Small Orb | 4.3cm | 3.2cm | 46.25g | 3D / spherical |
| Man. Mini Bas Relief | 1.6–1.7cm | 2.7–3.2cm | 11.0g | 2D / extended |
The Mini Bas Relief is the most widely produced variant. It uses a brass base with pavé-set crystal surface, designed to feel lightweight (~8.5g) despite its visual complexity. Tiny and Petite variants reduce scale further for minimal aesthetics.
2 | Pearl Bas Relief Family
The Pearl Bas Relief replaces the metal trace chain with hand-knotted strands of Swarovski crystal pearls.
Key Pieces
- Single-strand choker: 40cm length, central Mini Bas Relief Orb, ~44 pearls
- Three-row choker: Three parallel pearl strands, associated with the 1990 "Portrait" collection
- Pearl bracelet: Wrist-scaled version, typically 15.5–17.5cm
Swarovski crystal pearls are glass-core beads coated with high-durability pearlescent finish. The glass core gives them weight and temperature properties similar to natural pearls while offering significantly greater resistance to body oils and acids.
3 | Mayfair Family
The Mayfair collection replaces the organic pavé crystal surface of the Bas Relief with geometric pyramid studs — a motif drawn from the brand's punk-era garment hardware.
Construction
Heavier than Mini Bas Relief at ~11.5g. Surface combines high-polish metal studs with inset crystals, producing a tactile, industrial texture.
Layering Impact
The Mayfair's studded surface reflects light differently from the crystal-dominant Bas Relief. Frequently features dual-tone plating — a design signal that cross-tone styling is intended.
4 | Man Collection Adaptations
The Man collection uses Orb motifs often identical to the women's Mini Bas Relief but reinforces surrounding hardware for durability and scales proportions for larger frames.
| Component | Standard Collection | Man Collection |
|---|---|---|
| Necklace chain length | 40–48cm | 52–57cm |
| Chain gauge | Standard trace chain | Thicker gauge for rigorous wear |
| Fastenings | Standard lobster clasp | Larger clasp, reinforced jump rings |
| Bracelet length | Up to 17.5cm | Up to 20cm or 24cm |
The Orb pendant itself typically remains at standard Mini Bas Relief dimensions. The differences are in the infrastructure — the Man collection is a structural reinforcement of existing families, not a separate design language.
5 | Three Eras of Orb Construction
Two-Dimensional Bas Relief Era
Began in the late 1980s. Treats the Orb as a flat relief — "drawn" in metal and stones on a single plane. Practical for daily wear.
Three-Dimensional Spherical Era
Represented by the New Small Orb (46.25g). Fully spherical centre — often lead glass or clear acrylic — suspended within the satellite ring.
Hybrid Era
Applies cut-out details around the Saturn ring to create depth and negative space even in flat Bas Relief constructions, producing the illusion of dimensionality without the weight of a full sphere.
Identifying which era a piece belongs to clarifies its weight, fragility profile, and how it hangs. Spherical-era pieces are significantly heavier and require stronger chain support.
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