How to Spot Fake Vivienne Westwood Jewellery
Vivienne Westwood is one of the most counterfeited jewellery brands in the UK. Fakes flood eBay, Amazon third-party listings, and social media sellers — many convincingly photographed and priced just low enough to seem like a bargain. This guide covers what to check and what the red flags look like. The safest way to avoid a fake is to buy from an authorised stockist.
1 | The Problem With Vivienne Westwood Fakes
Vivienne Westwood's Orb motif is one of the most recognisable symbols in British fashion. That recognition is precisely why fakes exist at volume. Counterfeit VW jewellery is produced in bulk, primarily in China, and distributed through online marketplaces, social media sellers, and informal market stalls. The fakes range from obvious (lightweight, blurry engraving, cheap chain) to more convincing reproductions that include branded-looking packaging and stamps.
Where Fakes Are Most Commonly Found
- eBay listings — especially "Buy It Now" at well below retail price
- Amazon third-party sellers (not sold and fulfilled by Amazon directly)
- Instagram and TikTok shop sellers with no physical presence
- Facebook Marketplace and local selling groups
- Market stalls and car boot sales
This guide does not cover every possible variation — counterfeiters adapt. It covers the indicators that are hardest to fake convincingly, and the tells that most fakes get wrong.
2 | The Orb Logo
The Orb is the single most important authentication point. It is also the point counterfeiters most consistently fail on. The genuine Orb motif has precise proportional relationships that were developed from the original 1987 Harris Tweed collection design. Reproductions taken from secondary moulds — made by casting from a finished piece — lose definition with every generation of copying.
Genuine Orb Characteristics
Cross-top sits vertically centred above the sphere and is proportional to the full Orb height. Satellite ring (the Saturn-like band around the sphere) is symmetrical on both sides and sits at a consistent angle. The sphere has clean, sharp definition with no irregular surface texture. Relief lines are crisp under magnification.
Counterfeit Orb Tells
Cross-top is off-centre, crooked, or disproportionately small or large. Satellite ring extends further on one side than the other. Sphere surface appears "blobby" or rough rather than cleanly cast. Relief detail blurs under a loupe or close-up phone camera. The overall shape looks slightly wrong even if hard to articulate exactly why.
How to Check the Orb
Photograph the pendant or charm under good light and zoom in on your phone. Compare directly to product images on the official OD's Vivienne Westwood collection page or the Vivienne Westwood website. The proportional errors on fakes are usually immediately apparent when placed side by side with a genuine reference image.
3 | Weight and Feel
Genuine Vivienne Westwood jewellery uses quality brass or sterling silver as the base metal. These materials have real weight. Counterfeits typically use zinc alloy or low-grade pot metal, which is cheaper and noticeably lighter. Weight is one of the more reliable physical checks because it is difficult to fake convincingly without using the correct alloy.
| Design | Documented Genuine Weight | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Mini Bas Relief pendant | 8.5g – 8.55g | Most widely produced design — significant deviation suggests wrong alloy or mould |
| Mayfair Bas Relief | ~11.5g | Heavier due to studded construction |
| Man. Mini Bas Relief | ~11.0g | Extended width adds material weight |
| New Small Orb pendant | ~46.25g | Three-dimensional spherical form — counterfeits are typically significantly lighter |
A kitchen scale accurate to 0.1g is sufficient for comparison. Allow a tolerance of ±0.5g for genuine production variation across seasons. A piece that comes in 2–3g lighter than the documented weight is a strong indicator of a counterfeit.
Feel also matters beyond weight. Genuine VW jewellery has a quality coldness and density to the touch. Zinc alloy counterfeits feel lighter and warm up quickly against skin. The chain on genuine pieces moves with a fluid, substantial feel; counterfeit chains are often flimsy or feel slightly gritty at the links.
4 | Hallmarks and Stamps
Authentication stamps on Vivienne Westwood jewellery follow a specific pattern depending on the metal used. Understanding what to expect — and what deviations mean — is essential.
Sterling Silver Pieces (above 7.78g)
- Sponsor's Mark: The brand's Orb symbol or initials "VW" — not just a generic initial stamp
- Standard Mark "925": Confirms sterling silver at 925 parts per 1,000 pure silver
- Assay Office Mark: Leopard's Head (London), Anchor (Birmingham), or Rose (Sheffield)
- Date Letter: A specific font and shield combination denoting the year of manufacture
Important: Brass Pieces Are Not Hallmarked
The majority of the Classic and Fashion VW jewellery lines use brass as the base metal. Hallmarking legislation under the UK Hallmarking Act 1973 applies only to precious metals. A genuine brass-based VW piece will not have a hallmark, and that is correct. The absence of a hallmark on a brass piece is not a red flag. The red flag is a piece claimed to be sterling silver above 7.78g that lacks a hallmark.
Look for the brand name stamped clearly as "Vivienne Westwood" or "VW" on the clasp, inside the pendant, or on a small metal tag near the fastening. Counterfeits often have no stamp at all, an illegible stamp, or a generic "925" stamp without any accompanying Assay Office mark or Sponsor's mark. A "925" alone is not authentication — it is one element of a complete hallmark.
5 | Packaging
Genuine Vivienne Westwood jewellery is packaged consistently and to a specific standard. Counterfeiters often invest in approximate packaging, but several details consistently reveal the copy.
Genuine Packaging (Current Era)
Box constructed from 100% wood pulp with approximately 40% recycled content. Dust bag included for all core jewellery items. Authenticity card printed on FSC-certified paper — plastic-free. Typography is precise, evenly spaced, and in the correct Vivienne Westwood typeface. The Orb logo on the box is cleanly printed and correctly proportioned.
Counterfeit Packaging Tells
Box logo not perfectly centred or visibly off-proportion. Incorrect font used on care leaflet or authenticity card. Plastic-based authenticity cards rather than paper stock. Spelling errors or grammatical mistakes on any printed material. Cheap, lightweight box material that dents easily. Dust bag in wrong colour, texture, or with incorrect branding.
Packaging Is Not Proof Alone
Convincing counterfeit packaging exists. Packaging is one check among several — not the only check. A piece can arrive in acceptable-looking packaging and still be a fake. Similarly, genuine pieces bought second-hand may no longer have their original packaging. Never rely on packaging alone to authenticate.
6 | Price
Price is one of the clearest indicators. Vivienne Westwood does not authorise deep discounting. If a piece is priced well below the typical retail range, it is almost certainly not genuine.
| Item Type | Typical Retail Range |
|---|---|
| Entry earrings and small pendants | £90 – £120 |
| Necklaces (pendant styles) | £120 – £170 |
| Bas Relief Choker | £130 – £175 |
| Pearl strand necklaces | £150 – £250+ |
| Bracelets | £90 – £150 |
| Rings | £90 – £140 |
The Price Rule
- A "brand new sealed" Bas Relief Choker at £20–£40 is a fake. No exceptions.
- An end-of-season sale from an authorised retailer might be 10–20% off. It will not be 70% off.
- Second-hand genuine pieces can sell below retail, but not at a fraction of it for "new" condition.
- The materials and labour cost alone on a genuine piece exceed what fakes are sold for.
7 | Metal Quality
The metal used in genuine Vivienne Westwood jewellery is consistent across the range by design type. Deviations in finish, colour, or longevity are often the first sign that something is wrong.
Genuine Metal Specifications
Classic and Fashion line: rhodium-plated brass or 18ct gold-plated brass with a palladium barrier layer that prevents copper migration. Fine line: 925 sterling silver. The plating on genuine pieces is dense and consistent — surfaces are smooth and uniform under inspection.
Counterfeit Metal Indicators
Zinc alloy base (also called pot metal or white metal). This discolours within weeks of wear — turning greenish, yellowing unevenly, or showing the grey-silver of raw zinc at wear points. The surface can feel slightly rough or show casting lines that the plating has not fully concealed.
One practical test: within a few weeks of regular wear, counterfeit pieces will begin showing discolouration at contact points — the back of the pendant, the inner edges of links, the clasp. Genuine pieces maintain their finish considerably longer under normal wear conditions.
8 | The Most Counterfeited Designs
Not all VW pieces are equally targeted. Counterfeiters focus on the most recognisable and most searched designs. These are the ones that require the most scrutiny when buying from any unverified source.
High-Risk Designs to Check Carefully
- Bas Relief Choker — The most widely faked VW piece. The Orb pendant on fakes is almost always visibly wrong under close inspection.
- Mini Bas Relief Pendant — Faked extensively, often sold alone without the original chain. Weight (8.5g–8.55g) is the most reliable check here.
- Pearl Strand Necklaces — Genuine pieces use Swarovski crystal pearls (glass-core, heavier) with individual hand-knotting. Fakes use plastic-core beads, often strung on wire with no knotting.
- Mayfair Bas Relief Necklace — The studded construction is hard to replicate convincingly. Fake versions often have uneven or misaligned crystals, and the studs feel flat rather than raised.
- Orb Drop Earrings — Small Orb detail is particularly susceptible to definition loss in counterfeit moulds.
9 | Where to Buy Safely
The single most reliable way to avoid a fake is to buy from an authorised stockist. Authorised retailers receive stock directly from Vivienne Westwood and can provide a proof-of-purchase receipt, meaning the provenance of the piece is documented from manufacture.
Safe Sources
Authorised Vivienne Westwood stockists (including OD's Jewellers). The official Vivienne Westwood website. Established department stores stocking VW as an authorised brand. Authorised stockists can be verified on the Vivienne Westwood website.
Higher-Risk Sources
eBay listings without a verifiable receipt. Amazon third-party sellers (not 'Sold by Amazon'). Social media sellers with no physical address or returns policy. Markets and car boot sales. Sellers on Vinted or Depop claiming items are "brand new sealed" at suspiciously low prices.
OD's Jewellers — Authorised Vivienne Westwood Stockist
We stock 161 Vivienne Westwood jewellery pieces at our St Helens store. All items come with proof of purchase. Browse the full range at odsjewellers.com/collections/vivienne-westwood or visit us in store.
10 | If You Think You Have a Fake
If you have already bought a piece and are now uncertain about its authenticity, there are practical steps to work through.
- Compare the Orb to genuine reference images. Use close-up product photos from the OD's VW collection page or the Vivienne Westwood website. Photograph your piece under good light and zoom in. Proportional errors in the cross-top or satellite ring are usually visible.
- Weigh the piece. A kitchen scale accurate to 0.1g is sufficient. Compare against the documented weights in section 3 of this guide.
- Check the stamps. Find the clasp or pendant reverse and look for the brand stamp under a magnifying glass or phone camera. "Vivienne Westwood" or "VW" should be clearly legible, not blurred or absent.
- Inspect the packaging. Look at the box typography, the logo position, and the material quality of the authenticity card.
- Check for discolouration. If the piece has been worn and is already showing green or uneven yellowing at contact points, zinc alloy is the likely base metal.
If You Believe You Were Sold a Fake
- If purchased on eBay: open a dispute through the eBay Resolution Centre under "Item not as described"
- If purchased on Amazon: raise a claim through the A-to-Z Guarantee
- If purchased via a social media seller: contact your bank to dispute the transaction as misrepresentation
- Trading Standards can be informed via the Citizens Advice consumer helpline (0808 223 1133)
Top Picks at OD's — In Stock Now
Three best-sellers our customers are choosing this month — all in stock, ready to ship from St Helens, available to try in our St Helens store before you buy.
All available in-store at 41 Barrow Street, St Helens, WA10 1RY — try before you buy.
Browse the full jewellery range at OD's.
Shop Vivienne Westwood Jewellery at OD's Jewellers
Browse our full range of 161 Vivienne Westwood jewellery pieces — all sourced directly as an authorised stockist, all available with proof of purchase.
Browse the Full Collection
See the complete Vivienne Westwood collection at OD's Jewellers online, or visit us at 41 Barrow Street, St Helens, WA10 1RY. Mon–Sat 9am–5pm, phone 01744 730985.